Many comments from our last Pitti article asked for pictures of more subdued outfits.  So, we put together a series of exclusive pictures taken by Miguel Viera for the Gentleman’s Gazette, accompanied by the usual commentary.

Tobacco & Smoking

We already established that windowpane suits were popular, too many men still wear wristbands, and Pitti Peacocks continued to compete for attention, but more interestingly, cigars, pipes and everything regarding tobacco seems to be in again. We all know the how effortlessly cool Steve McQueen looked when he smoked, and it seems like old school tobacco (not vapor cigarettes) gives men the opportunity to set themselves apart.

The gentleman in the blue knit jacket or cardigan prefers a softer look. A soft felt hat is paired with open shirt cuffs and his shirt collar obviously does not have collar stays. Knitwear is flexible and stretchy and the tie seems like it is made of black or dark navy shantung silk. His spectacle frames seem to be made of horn, or maybe just acetate and with his pipe he follows the trend.

The other man is smoking with gusto and pulls off a peacoat in an unusual, basket-inspired weave. Note how the silver ring and watchband match the coat buttons.

Gianni Fontana likes his pipe as well and pairs it with a special velour hat. You probably won’t believe it, but these Austrian hats were sold in U.S. department stores in the fifties and sixties. Today, it is very difficult to find them new. While I like his color scheme, I think the overcoat plaid clashes with the sport coat. If you wear plaid, that’s fine, but choose a solid garment as a counterpart.

The double breasted jacket with 4×1 Kent Fasson is more popular now than it was 5 years ago, yet I have not really seen a look that would do Prince George the Duke of Kent justice. His look was relaxed and natural with the top button pair just slightly extending on either side whereas this button configuration looks cramped to me. Note how the buttoning point was elevated and the pockets remain in place, rendering a look that is somewhat out of balance.

The mustard yellow casentino coat is not special when you just consider the fabric or texture, but the color is certainly not something you see everyday.

Donegal tweed is the ideal fabric for sport coats because it has this unparalleled depth of color paired with a casual look. Here we see a version in green, with a large madder inspired paisley tie.

Next, we see a smoker in a black ulster style overcoat and red bow tie, but both are anything but generic. Take a close look at the edges of his overcoat and you will notice that the  edges are frayed for a distinct look. Also, the bow tie is quilted and seems to be made of leather or some kind of vinyl. Personally, I prefer bow ties in wool, silk or linen, but each to his own.

The following chap matches a flowery shirt with a vest, watch chain, bowler hat and trench coat. In combination with his pipe, it looks like he is trying too hard.

On the other hand, Ethan Desu wears a very subtle combination of a three piece suit with triple overcheck and wool tie. With his beard and pipe, he looks like smoking is his favorite thing in the world, even though he has not lit the pipe yet.

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Wearable Outfits & Details

Not everybody can dress like a ‘Pitti-Peacock’, and in fact most men who are interested in clothes don’t. I suspect we only see it because it is a great way to draw attention in a way Beau Brummell would have certainly disapproved – he famously said “If John Bull turns around to look at you, you are not well dressed; but either too stiff, too tight, or too fashionable”.

I hope some of these pictures can help you to introduce a component of color or texture to your outfits to make them more unique without being over the top. I like the subtle shades of grey and white in his outfit, especially paired with the excellent fit of his shirt and jacket. He only wears one pattern and three solid colors. The shirt and pocket square are plain white but the pinpoint flannel gray tie connects the jacket with the white elements. Note the drape over his chest and the spalla camicia shirt style shoulder without and sort of padding. All together, these elements make the ensemble timelessly elegant. What do you think of his style?

In the first picture, you can see a seasoned gentleman, who proves that one doesn’t need flashy colors to create a noteworthy outfit. He pairs a subtle pattern gray wool flannel tie with a white shirt, pocket square and a herringbone jacket. The fit is very good and unique because of his unpadded spalla camicia shirt style shoulder and the drape over his chest.

Next up is Toni Rossi, who pairs muted colors such as gray, brown and blue to create a wearable outfit. To add a bit of depth, he combines two kinds of stripes,  a dotted tie and a textured cardigan or knit vest.

Green is very popular this winter, but I am not talking about a rich olive or grass green, but more of a washed-out green as seen on the gentleman with the green coat. A simple navy tie, blue shirt, and a dark checked sweater makes this outfit anything but generic without standing out from the crowd on first sight.

Mid gray is very versatile and when tailored in a diagonal twill fabric, you would be hard pressed to find a color that does not look good with it. Here we have a muted green sweater vest, burgundy striped silk tie and a white shirt with white linen pocket square.

Beautiful brown sport coat with grenadine tie and orange pocket square – one in real ancient madder silk would have been better, note the curved button down collar

Overcoats

Overcoats are great for cold winters. When it is  50°F / 10°C like in Florence in January, it is often too warm to wear an overcoat, yet at Pitti men pull out their capes and overcoats anyway. This season, the cape was popular and even the ones who did not wear a cape often wore the overcoat thrown over their shoulders.  If you want to do that on a regular basis, I suggest avoiding double breasted overcoats because the extra overlap makes it look odd when you don’t close it. On the other hand, if you wear them closed, double breasted coats are perfect because they keep you warmer due to the double layers of fabric and at the same time, they give you a more military inspired look.

What would you wear and what would you do differently?

Wristbands are still popular – see you later this summer

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A while ago, we inspected a mytailor shirt and today, I will continue our series of Custom suits by reviewing a suit (c/o) from the same company. Like their shirts, they have an extensive fabric collection to choose from and offer a travelling tailor service in the U.S.

Order Process

The first step of the order in process was to schedule a meeting with Mr. Andre Lani, who is himself a tailor that travels on behalf of the company. It was very easy to schedule an appointment online but alternatively, I could have called a 800 number to do so. When I arrived at the hotel suite in downtown Minneapolis, Mr. Lani had an extensive array fabric swatches lined up on several tables. The room had plenty of daylight so it was easy to see the real shade of each fabric. Compared to online establishments such as Indochino or Black Lapel, the advantage of mytailor is clearly the wealth of fabrics that you can choose from, right then and there, as well as the live consultation by an actual tailor. In the beginning, Mr. Lani asked me about my profession and what suits I already owned, and he guides his customers as much or as little as desired.

Fabrics & Cut

First, I began by browsing through the swatch books and although he probably had close to 1000 swatches with him, you can find thousands more on their website. Personally, I was interested in a flannel fabric and I pretty quickly settled on a navy with an off white windowpane from Vitale Barberis Canonico. Once at home, I saw, they also had one in mottled grey and all it took was an email to change my fabric choice along with a change of the lining color. Once we settled on the fabric, we discussed styling options. Of course, they had laminated cards with certain style features but I wanted to design my own silhouette.  Generally, a true custom garment allows you to not only choose from options, but to create your own details from scratch. This requires much more know-how and vision of the finished garment on the customer end. I had brought pictures from my archive and pointed out certain elements I wanted. Mr. Lani took notes, but I also sent them via email, which is probably the best way to do it. I wanted a 6×2 double breasted suit with a high buttoning point, a lapel with a bit of belly, some drape and a flare cut which would overall look like a 1930’s suit that was modified for modern times. I also requested a lapel gimp buttonhole Milanese style, a full upper sleeve and rather small armholes paired with enough fabric in the back, and little padding so I would be able to move my arms easily. To me the advantage of bespoke garments is that you can really create a garment that is stylish with your own cut that is almost as comfortable as a sweater. As such, it is important to me that I can move my arms freely and most off the rack garments and even MTM garments are not comfortable to wear because they restrict movement. Currently is seems most bespoke lovers order their suits and jackets unlined and sometimes even without sleeve lining. It seems to me like this trend is rooted in the south of Italy and the current popularity of the Neapolitan jacket has definitely contributed to this trend. Personally, I own unlined garments but I don’t like them too much because your shirt sleeves are caught more easily. I also don’t live in a climate where temperatures and humidity in the summer almost force you to go unlined. As such, I had the front of the jacket lined in the suit fabric and I chose a green changeant herringbone lining for the back as well as a striped lining for the sleeves. In addition to that, I opted for a particularly soft canvas and for trousers with a fishtail back, side adjusters, offset piped pockets, double inward pleats and two inch cuffs. I was able to specify the hem width and overall trouser cut, which made me happy because I wear pants on my natural waist.

Measurements

Once all details were discussed, Mr. Lani started to take measurements. He very carefully took every measurement at least twice. Afterwards he took several pictures of my posture that would allow the tailors to get a better fit because of my round back and sloped shoulders. Overall, I can say that this was the most thorough measurement session I’ve had with a tailor. It even revealed that one of my arms was a quarter inch shorter due to my posture. Overall, I was very pleased with the entire process.

Wait Times, Price & Payment

Generally, it takes about 10 weeks to finish a suit once the order is finally submitted. In my case, it took a little longer because of a delay in the fabric acquisition. Considering you get a full bespoke garment, this is a rather short time frame, especially compared to more famous travelling tailor establishments from England. Compared to Indochino or Black Lapel it is a bit longer but considering the higher degree of customization, I am perfectly happy with that time frame. Payments are due half upon order, and half once you are happy with your garment. A 2 piece suit in this fabric costs $999, which is certainly more expensive than Indochino or Black Lapel, but the extensive fabric selection including quality brand names, the custom pattern and the higher degree of workmanship do make up for it many times in my opinion. If you choose a Super 100’s house cloth, a two piece suit will set you back $799. Of course, you can also spend $8000 on a suit if you choose the most luxurious fabrics, but personally I prefer interesting patterns in 100% wool or blended with silk, cashmere or alpaca. Make sure to take advantage of this fantastic swatch collection and try to pick a fabric that is not one of the usual suspects that you can get anywhere else because it will be difficult to find the more unique fabrics elsewhere.

Fittings & Alterations

Mytailor will generally send you the finished suit without any fittings after your initial session. If alterations are necessary, you can either meet the travelling tailor next time he is in town, take pictures and send the suit back to mytailor (free return label is provided), or if you prefer to have your local alterations tailor quickly shorten a pants hem or something similarly simple, they’ll reimburse you. Alterations will be performed until you are happy with the garment.

Linen Bow Tie in Orange by Fort Belvedere

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Result

To be honest I was not sure how the suit would fit without a formal fitting, though I hoped for the best since neither Indochino nor Black Lapel offered fittings. The result was very good for a first suit. Compared to all other suits, the mytailor.com suit had the best fit and felt the most comfortable, although it was not perfect. After having worn it a number of times, I will send it back and have alterations made, or even better, I wait until a rep is in town again, so he can take pictures and take notes.

As you can see in the pictures, only little things such as the button height, sleevehead and back area need to be fixed, maybe the right armhole could cut a bit deeper and then the wrinkles underneath the right shoulder would disappear. Otherwise, I am extremely pleased with it, especially considering that I have had full bespoke garments that did not fit as well after 2 or 3 fittings. Maybe it was luck, but I think it is more likely that the measurements paired with the pictures, expertise and experience were the reason for the best initial suit I have ever received. The position of the top buttons will be a challenge because of the combination of the window pane pattern and my sloping shoulders. It is more difficult to place the buttons so they look level and symmetrical when I stand normally, and they realized that and tried to compensate for it, which shows remarkable attention to detail. Overall, that’s a small detail that I can change myself rather easily because it is essential for me to wear it when the button is sewn on to get it right. The sleeves fall nicely and just the area of the sleeveheads on either sides show a few wrinkles. The range of movement is fantastic – I can reach everything without being constrained by the sleeves, armholes or shoulders, and I really enjoy that. Sleeve length good on both arms and need very little if any adjustment, and I also like the balance of the coat. The slope of my right shoulder also wasn’t spot on. In the pictures you can see the wrinkles in the back and under my right armpit. To solve the problem, they will have to cut the armhole on the right a tad deeper and take out some fabric on right shoulder seam so it lays properly against my back. I am confident that these little cosmetic changes will be no problem for mytailor, and I am really happy with the suit. Of course, the changes will also be reflected in your personal pattern, so next time around the suit should fit pretty much perfectly from the get go. Once you are at that stage, you could simply make a phone call to place an order for your next suit.

You can find their suits here.

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Silk Bow Tie Butterfly in Green Jacquard Double Stripe- Fort Belvedere

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Edelweiss Boutonniere Buttonhole Flower Fort Belvedere

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Silk Pocket Square in Brown with Blue, Green, Red Large Paisley Pattern- Fort Belvedere

PROs & CONs

Mytailor.com Pros & Cons

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In the past, I have discussed many 1930’s outfits and styles because it was the golden era of menswear. Today, I will discuss spring style, outfits and accessories from 1933 using fabulous fashion illustrations. I am certain you will learn a few things from these outfits, and I will try to help as much as possible to you can be inspired and recreate certain color / pattern combinations in your own ensembles.

Three 1930’s Spring Outfits

Jodhpurs, Tattersall, Cream Flannel & Chalk Stripe Suit

First, let’s look at a very diversified trio. On the left, we have a gentleman in khaki Jodhpurs (see our guide here) with chestnut brown leather boots, yellow tattersall vest with the bottom button undone. Both of these items are paired with an Ascot and a stick pin. Note, this is the classic Ascot that is worn outside the shirt with a detachable collar, and fastened with the stick pin. You may associate this kind of Ascot with a proper morning coat, and while that’s correct, it is also worn for horse mounted hunts and as such country attire through and through. On the one hand, the peaked lapels of  the brown sportcoat are not quite proper – generally peaked lapels were reserved for city wear and even though these are not very peaked and resemble a Tautz lapel (which points out exactly horizontally) it is still a peak lapel. On the other hand, the two cuff buttons indicate country jacket. I am not sure if the illustrator was just confused with the craze for the short peaked lapel at the time or if it was a conscious, fashion forward design, but in any case the color and pattern combination in this outfit is spot on. Khaki and brown solid paired with large scale yellow tattersall pattern and a small scale checked Ascot in blue. The man in the middle is casual in the sense that he just wears a sweater and a lightweight spring scarf. Personally, I don’t find his look overly appealing but I really adore the off white flannel trousers, because I think they will pair well with almost anything, including a blazer, hacking jacket, checked sportcoats or windowpanes. So if you look for an investment pieces this spring, off white flannel trousers. Off the rack you can find them at the Merchant Fox and they also sell the fabric individually For more inspirational outfits with cream of off white flannels, please look here. The chap on the right, is wearing a navy chalk stripe suit with about an inch of spacing in between the stripes. It seems. like most inexpensive off the rack suits have less spacing in between the stripes, whereas cloth for bespoke suits often come with a wider spacing. Personally, I prefer an inch as shown in the pictures but it is a very personal choice and simply a matter to taste, so choose the spacing you like best. If you wear hats, a light grey Homburg is obviously always a great choice for a dark striped suit, but what’s less apparent is the grey shirt. During the 1930’s it was a popular color and in combination with the long, non-spread collar you can recreate a thirties look instantly. The necktie is made of a burgundy and off white jacquard pattern but what’s more important is the length of the tie. Today, most guides will tell you that the tie should reach the middle of the belt buckle, but at the same time, most trousers have a much lower rise, so that contemporary ties are much longer than the ones in the thirties. Also, if your tie reaches a belt buckle with an off the rack trousers, it will extend past your waistband in case you wear high waisted trousers with suspenders. Personally, I think it looks terrible to have the tie extend beyond the waistband and therefore, I decided to offer ties in three different lengths, so you can adjust the length to your height, but also to the way you wear your trousers. I own trousers with a high rise, but others with a lower rise and so I have ties in different lengths in my collection. If I want a big knot on a low rise trouser, I choose long or regular ties or long ties, for a four in hand knot, I mostly go with regular length ties, and for high rise trousers and four in hand knots, I wear short ties. As you can see, it all depends on the fact you want to achieve. If you want to achieve a thirties, look, definitely go with short ties. While most trousers back then featured suspenders, the Duke of Windsor popularized belts, and as such you can find the gentleman in the picture wearing a grey belt, rather than suspenders.

1930’s Peaked Lapel

One iconic style feature you see over an over again in old movies and illustrations is the thirties peaked lapel. Below, you can see an example from the film Night After Night.

Look at the grey suit – beautiful lapels, high waisted trousers, boutonniere and pocket square plus collar pin – stunning from Night After Night

Short Lapel Silhouette Front View – it’s very rare to see this style nowadays and its distinctly 1930’s

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If you look closely, you’ll notice it is just a 2 button jacket and hence the buttoning point is very high. In order to make it work, the trousers have to be cut likewise very high, because otherwise you will see the shirt front peaking through underneath the closing button, which is never advantageous. At the same tie, the tie has to be very short or tucked into your waistband. Probably the better style for these short lapels is the single breasted 3 button coat, because it is buttoned on the middle button, allowing you to wear a regular high rise trouser. below, you can see an example of a typical 1930’s short lapel striped suit: natural shoulders, large drop – meaning huge difference between chest and waist measurement, full cut trousers and of course, a short peaked lapel that points straight out or just slightly upward. The lapels should end at the top button and measure about 9-10 cm / 3.5 – 4″ in width, for the perfect look.

What to wear with a Navy Striped Suit

Now, once you have the suit details down, the look is not completed quiet yet, because the accoutrements make the difference.

Unlined Gloves in Grey & Chamois Yellow by Fort Belvedere

With a Blue Shirt

Tie: Pattern tie with base color in blue, burgundy or white. Hat: Light Grey Homburg Hat Gloves: Unlined – light grey Shoes: Black leather – spit polished Socks: Navy or with shadow stripes in blue or navy and red Pocket square: white linen or white linen with colored edge of framing For 1930s look: Dove grey spats

With Light Brown, Light Red or Cream Colored Shirt

Tie or Bow Tie: base color, red, blue or green Hat: Brown felt snap brim hat Gloves: Chamois yellow unlined Shoes: Oxblood / Burgundy / Cordovan Pocket Square: Light pastel colors Socks; Over the calf blue navy, or same colors as tie For 1930s look: Sand colored spats

With Light Grey Shirt

Tie: light blue, navy, burgundy, yellow or green Hat: Navy or dark green Gloves: Unlined – light grey Shoes: Black leather – spit polished ot dark chestnut brown Pocket Square: Light pastel colors No Spats

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One of the most underutilized suit colors in this day in age is certainly brown. Men who wear suits to work often go for navy, charcoal, grey or anything in between, but brown is not really on their radar unless they wear sport coats. Just like blue or grey, brown comes in a infinite number of shades, and considering the different weaves, patterns, checks and stripes available it should be no problem at all to find a suitable shade of brown for every hair color and complexion. As you may know, I am personally a huge fan of brown suits and I own many of them. So far, I have shared the brown flannel glen check suit as well as the brown blue check 3 piece suit. Today, I would like to discuss a very special shade of brown, the “charcoal brown”, because it is hugely underrated yet perfectly suited for business suits and casual wear alike. On top of that, this color is so versatile that you can wear it all year long!

Charcoal Brown in 1938

Short History of Charcoal Brown Suits

In the 19th century, common suiting colors available were all dark and ranged from black to charcoal and sometimes blue. Brown was also available, though it was not popular. Towards the turn of the 20th century, brown became a little more utilized and in the 1930’s brown suits, overcoats and accessories were heavily advertised as the latest trend, because it helped to sell more garments but also because it was simply a color that suited many gentlemen. Just think about the brown suits with white pin stripes, or a brown flannel suits with off white chalk stripes from the 1930’s when you picture characters like Al Capone or most recently the characters in Boardwalk Empire. At that time, brown in darker shades had been firmly established as a wardrobe staple.

Al Capone & Boardwalk Empire

What Exactly is Charcoal Brown?

Now you probably know charcoal but you wonder what charcoal brown is – the answer was given in an ad from 1938.

Charcoal Brown Fabric with Nailhead Pattern

Charcoal Brown fabric is a blend of charcoal and brown yarn

“A NEW COLOR BECOMING TO ALL MEN

Today there’s a new color becoming to all men. Its base is brown, its shade is dark. So often we’ve heard you say, ” But I can’t wear brown.” But these are modern days and here is the middle course of modern color blending. With this blackish-brown, every dark accessory goes perfectly for conservative appearance, yet equally well do more colorful hose, neckwear, shirts and hats combine.

Charcoal brown is a new lease on life for all “grey and blue” adherents. We have it in suits, coats and many accessories.”

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Although it looks brown from a few feet away, you can see that it is woven of black or charcoal yarn as well as dark brown yarn resulting in a very dark brown. Of course, it would also be possible to to have just one simple solid color of charcoal brown, but the combined yarns give the fabric more depth and sophistication.

How to Combine Charcoal Brown?

As outlined in the ad, brown goes well with almost anything. Personally, I find green and orange tones work extremely well, but also blue, red, salmon, pink, yellow, lavender… all look splendid with it. If you have a high contrast between your hair color and skin color, or if you are very tan or African American, I suggest, you go for high contrast looks and pair it with a white or light pastel colors. On the other hand, if you have pale skin and grey, white, blonde or red hair, try to keep the contrast low and combine the charcoal brown suit with earth tones. When it comes to shoes, you can either go with black or shades or brown or tan. I suggest you have a bit of contrast for your shoes, so they are noticeably different from the suit color.

If you want to combine a hat, I would shy away from black but brown, green, tan, silverbelly or olive will work well. For overcoats, I suggest tan, khaki or green outer garment in worsted, tweed or a simple trench coat, and our charcoal brown gloves with crocheting are the perfect companion for a charcoal brown suit.

Charcoal Brown Suit from 1938 with Winchester Shirt, white linen pocket square and dark red carnation boutonniere.

The gentleman above wears a single breasted three button suit from 1938 with a winchester shirt and mustard yellow stripes, dark tie with hints of teal, a dark red carnation boutonniere, a white linen pocket square and a dark green olive overcoat with fur collar, chamois yellow gloves and a dark brown bowler hat. Exquisite, isn’t it?

Charcoal Brown Suit combination with ties and shirts

Peccary Gloves in Dark Chocolate Brown with contrast stitching & crochet with snap button by Fort Belvedere

Where to Buy Charcoal Brown Suits?

If you are interested in a charcoal brown suit or any other shade of brown for that matter, you will probably have a harder time finding them off the rack. Southwick offers an OTR suit for $995, but for less you can actually get a MTM suit which allows you to pick the exact fabric you like. For example, mytailor.com has a huge selection of brown fabrics for suits and prices start under $1,000. Personally, I would suggest to go that route, because you can truly get a style and fabric you want and the fit will be noticeably better in most cases.

How many brown suits do you own? How many in Charcoal Brown? How do you combine them?

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After more than a decade of experience with men’s fashion illustrations, I still find new styles and interesting details regularly. The other day, I flipped through a German Herrenjournal from 1937 and I found some very interesting overcoats with fur collars along with other details that I would like to share with you.

Ulster inspired overcoats with fur shawl collars for men paired with silk scarves from 1937

Men’s Overcoats with Fur Collars

First, let’s take a look at these two beautiful double breasted overcoats with fur collars. Personally, I wear double breasted overcoats almost exclusively since they suit my built and silhouette, and they look dressier in my opinion. Although I do own a double breasted beaver fur coat, I have never really found an overcoat with just a fur collar and/or fur lining that I liked. However, a fur collar on an overcoat doesn’t just look stunning but it also makes you feel much warmer. That’s why I am always on the lookout for fur collars, which I then have attached to my overcoat. That way I can find the right coat, and look for a specific fur. Of course, when buying these fur collars, you should ideally have your overcoat with you so you know howit fits in terms of size. At he very least you should know the measurements. When in doubt, go with something that is a little bigger, because it doesn’t matter if it extends beyond the lapels but it is unwearable if you can see the lapel peaking out from underneath the fur collar. If  you want to learn how to buy and maintain fur, take a look here.

Traditionally, these men’s overcoats also had a full fur lining and hence they are perfect for cold winter days. If you take a closer look, you will notice that the gentleman on the left has a classic button closure that you will find on modern overcoats today, whereas the gentleman on the right has the buttons on the hem of his charcoal brown overcoat. This buttoning style was popular in the 1920’s especially with fur over coats. People like Rudolph Valentino had many coats like that. Today, it’s a hallmark of a vintage overcoat. As you can see in the picture, green and red tones work beautifully with brown tones, and I encourage you to wear interesting colors in winter to break the monotony of charcoal grey, black and navy outerwear witnessed allover the place. A fur collar and a little bit of color will be a unique way to do this and considering that a collar costs often not more than $40 -50, it is a very inexpensive option to upgrade your overcoat. Should you not grow tired of the look after a few seasons, you can simply remove it with a seam-ripper, and add it to another coat for a different look.

Personally, I would love to wear either of those coats because a shawl collar lapel on a DB overcoat is special and different from anything else. Note, nobody in the 1930’s ever wore black or really dark gloves, instead they always went with light, interesting and somewhat contrasting colors.

Ulster Overcoats with pale yellow and grey gloves

Ulster Overcoats

Ulster overcoats are hugely underrated in my opinion and rarely seen anymore. Most of the time you must visit a bespoke tailor to get one, especially if you are keen on details such as the ticket pocket or a special cuff as seen in the illustration above. For more details about this overcoat style, please take a look at my Ulster Guide. Once again, gloves are pale grey and yellow, not black or mid-brown. Also, note the difference in illustration technique between the prior and following illustration. The top one shows unreal men with small heads and super long torsos. The second illustration is less extreme, whereas the following illustration is soft and rather realistic in terms of proportion.

Light Trench Coat and 3 piece suit with red boutonniere

The man outside wears a trench coat or overcoat in a light beige color. Today, most men would shy away from such a light shade because it gets dirty rather quickly, though when combined well with some brighter or darker, contrasting accessories it looks rather debonair. On another note, look at the suit ensemble of the man sitting inside. He wears a collar pin with boutonniere and his jacket sleeve cuffs feature three buttons even though he has a vest. Nowadays most jackets have 4 buttons and most guides will tell you that 4 are more formal than three, yet this three piece suit, which would be considered rather formal these days just had 3. In fact, I have old tailcoats and morning coats, which are very formal garments and they just have two cuff buttons. It seems like back in the day 2 or 3 buttons were also used for more formal garments in continental Europe and the U.S.

Light grey overcoat with winter white scarf and chamois yellow men’s gloves

I like the picture above because it shows a man wearing three things, none of which are commonly seen anymore.

1. The light grey overcoat. It’s versatile and can be worn with business clothes and casual combinations alike. It is not too dark, yet it doesn’t get dirty easily and because of its versatility and dirt resistance it makes for an ideal travel piece.

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2. The white , off white or winter white scarf. Today, you see scarves in this color only at formal evening events and then it is more of a decorative accent rather than a functional piece of one’s wardrobe. It’s true that a white scarf stains more easily but that was exactly the reason why fine gentleman used to wear a lot of white. It showed that they were rich enough to afford a large wardrobe and that they were able to change, so their gloves and shirts were always white.

3. Chamois yellow gloves: very hard to find nowadays yet so versatile and elegant. For that reason, I decided to design my own gloves lined and unlined in this beautiful shade of yellow.

Business lunch 1937 -brown and windowpane suite and beautiful Paletot overcoats

I don’t know where you would have to go nowadays to find a group of men at lunch dressed equally as elegant as in this pictures. In the foreground, we see an interesting drape cut grey flannel windowpane suit with bordeaux checks in a 4×1 Kent silhouette with white boutonniere and winchester shirt. On the left, we see a SB brown suit with a vest, worn with a pale yellow shirt with collar pin and tie. Note, the sleeves have just three buttons on either sleeve.  In the background we see two gentleman in overcoats and scarves. In my opinion, this light grey overcoat is even better than the solid one from the illustration above because it has this strong diagonal twill rib effect that provides the garment with unique character without sacrificing its versatility. It is paired with a checked suit, dark shoes, a hat, blue polka dot scarf and chamois yellow gloves. The other gentleman wears a navy overcoat with a checked scarf and grey Homburg hat.

Stylistically, these drawings are once again slightly different, although the proportion issue of small heads with long bodies remains obvious.

Brown Windowpane and bold grey diagonal twill suit with navy stripes silk jacquard tie and boutonniere

Last bot not least, two great suits. First, a dark brown double breasted suit with a blue overcheck. To balance the dark suit, he chose a pastel yellow shirt with collar pin and a striped navy silk tie.

The other gentleman wears a three piece, mid-grey diagonal flannel suit with the same tie and a light grey winchester shirt with red boutonniere and pocket square. Although both suits are quite different the tie works very well in both cases. Back in those days, fabrics were really heavy and they tailored up more easily than today, in the sense that they showed fewer wrinkles and better drape. At the same time, the finishing was way worse than today. I would love to see a fabric in grey with big diagonal ribs with a heavier weight but modern day finish again. I am certain it would make up for a splendid suit or overcoat. Also, solid pastel colored shirts are one of the most underrated items in classic menswear today. Especially when paired with a white contrast collar, light red, violet, green, orange, yellow or grey can look stunning on men, yet most men are stuck with white, light blue and maybe some pink.

Stylistically this drawing displays a bit less detail though I love the fact that it highlights the versatility of the tie. Also, the proportions seem much better, although the hand seems rather large.

Overall, I found it quite interesting to see the variety of styles in illustration in the very same issue. Unfortunately, hardly anybody understand how to draw that way anymore and even if they do, chances are they lack the attention to detail which is needed to create drawings of this caliber.

What is your favorite illustration style and why? Do you own pastel colored shirts?

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Just the other day Pitti Uomo 88 ended and as we did in previous years, it’s time to take a closer looks at some 2015 outfits:

Your tie should never peak out from underneath the vest

Windowpane suits are great, and the combination of hat, Madras square and print tie works, though the shirt sleeves are too short and the tie is too long, because it should never show from underneath the vest, especially, when the bottom waistcoat button is undone.

White jacket with tie front tucked in, wide lapels on DB coat, khaki suit with short shirt sleeves

In this picture, you can admire a very unusual color palette, and Pitti Uomo is always great to showcase colors that are not overly common in menswear. On the left we have an off white single breasted jacket with a black and white stripes shirt, mid grey trouser, and dark green paisley tie where the wide end is tucked in and the slim end dangles past the waistband.

In the middle, you see a double breasted jacket in olive green with off white slim pants and a light blue shirt. Who would have thought of combining those three solid colors together? The shirt would look better if more buttons were closed…

On the right, you have a great khaki suit with dark dotted knit tie, striped shirt, dark pocket square and plenty of wristbands. I prefer to show a bit of shirt sleeve cuff as outlined here.

Tie too long & vest too short

When you wear a tie that extends past your trousers waistband, the triangle points towards your testicles which is a bit vulgar. Also, when wearing suspenders, you should ideally skip the belt loops on your pants. Also, a vest should always cover your waistband, and double breasted coats should be worn buttoned. In this case, you can even see the shirt above the waistband of the trousers. A longer vest is a must have!

Sport Coat combination and off-white raw silk suit

Superb combination on the left with a blue summery checked jacket, gray pants, light blue shirt and bold striped knit tie. Likewise a great way to wear an off-white suit on the right.

Skinny Pants

Young men in Europe like their jackets short, their pants super slim and driver mocs always work. It’s certainly not a classic way to do things, but it is much better than shorts and polo shirt, and it’s good to see young men develop their sense of style.

Seersucker Suit with bold knit tie

Nice combination.

Safari Suit

Safari suits are hardly seen anymore. Do wear it if you are in the tropics or if you want to catch attention.

Puff shoulders, belt loops without belt and tie that is rather long

The puffed shoulders are a matter of taste though in my experience most men consider them to be a bit effeminate, but again each to his own. Belt loops look better with a belt, and the tie length does not encourage the viewer to look into the wearer’s face, and therefore it is too long. Certainly and extravagant way to wear a pochette!

People at Pitti Uomo 88

Sunglasses and beards are popular though in this picture the ensemble on the left looks the best. Coordinated color and pattern palette without going overboard – well done!

Panama Hat, stripes shirt, checked sport coat, off-white slacks and printed red Madder Tie

Fantastic combination!

Outside Stefano Bemer

The 6×1 Kent silhouette is not too common anymore and in this example it is cut in a flattering way, unlike most 1980’s blazers. Edward Sexton on the right goes for the 4×1 Kent Fasson with a boutonniere, high collar, and collar pin – great picture!

Off white 3 piece suit, pastel green Winchester shirt, Panama hat and self-tie bow tie

Wonderful outfit of a true dandy. Off-white three piece suit with pastel green shirt, rakishly tied a bow tie and wide brim hat – bravo!

Madras Jacket with Tie and top shirt button undone

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Madras is great for warm weather, but if you wear a tie, do it properly or skip it entirely. This just looks sloppy, and Fabio Attanasio would agree.

Lino in Blue

Lino from Al Bazar loves blue.

Light Green summer suit with two boutonnieres

0 boutonnieres = average, 1 boutonniere = style , 2 boutonnieres = trying to be stylish.

Adjusting the tie

Very nice color and pattern combination.

In action

Pitti through the lens of Guerre

The suit on the left has a beautiful color, and the tie works too, but the hat is too close in color to the suit, and DB jackets should be worn buttoned.

Gapping Collar and Long Tie

Gapping collars are never flattering, and neither are overly long ties.

Extremely Short Jacket

Jackets have become shorter over the years, but this is barely longer than a vest – not recommended.

DB off white suit

Two splendid outfits – do copy them and add you own sense of style!

Colorful outfit – Il Bisonte Wanny di Filippo

Il Bisonte has been among the Peacocks every season in recent history – don’t try to copy him.

Color, texture and hats at Pitti Uomo 88 – Photo by Pitti Uomo

Pitti is always colorful but outside of Pitti a bright red suit is never a good idea. On the other hand, mixing blue and brown is!

Color at Pitti Uomo

Unusual colors in menswear can work if you keep the rest classic. Only experiment with it if you know what you are doing.

Bold sunglasses & strong color contrast Photo by Pitti Uomo, Enrique Labriola

Bold outfits catch the attention of photographers and others. Bear that in mind before you dress.

Blue Photo by Guerre for Mr Mag

Five different ways to wear blue – what is your favorite?

Photo Credits: by Guerre , MR Magazine, Pitti Uomo, Enrique Labriola, Beyond Fabric

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When we discuss Gentlemen of Style, typically we’re talking about real life men such as Clark Gable, Fred Astaire, Humphrey Bogart or JFK. Rarely does a fictional character come into play who has amassed such a wealth of attention for his clothes style and slicked hair.

Of course, we have a handful of fictional men who we often speak of, like Don Draper (Mad Men), James Bond, Hercule Poirot or Enoch “Nucky” Thompson (Boardwalk Empire). While we often leave these kinds of articles to likes of GQ and Esquire, we’ve opted to turn our attention to one of the modern stallions on TV who real men aspire to dress like.

In this article, we’re going to discuss the hair and suits of Harvey Specter, the protagonist in USA Network’s hit television show Suits, portrayed by Gabriel Macht.

Suits – Gabriel Macht and Patrick J Adams

Suits

First premiering back in June 2011, Suits has gained some critical acclaim for the USA Network since it first aired. Filmed in Toronto, Canada, it is just entering its fifth season focused on the same characters that we’ve known from the beginning.

Taking place at a top New York law firm, Suits centers around New York’s most infamous closer; Harvey Specter. The quintessential shark with a heart, Specter is forced to hire an associate and in doing so, runs across a young law prodigy named Mike Ross, who doesn’t actually have a degree. Seeing the immense talent in this troubled young man, he offers him an associate position at the firm on the grounds no one can find out the truth about his lack of credentials.

Throughout the show, most episodes focus on the relationships between the lawyers at the firm and the seemingly impossible cases they work on. Love affairs intertwine and relationships forge and dwindle, but throughout it all, a core team of top-notch lawyers stick together through thick and thin. As Mike’s secret threatens to damage the firm and throw both Mike and his mentor Harvey out of practice, deals are struck and lies are told to cover up one of New York’s dirtiest little secrets and one secret, that helps close some of the biggest corporate and criminal cases they Big Apple has ever seen.

Harvey Specter

Played by the dashing Gabriel Macht, Harvey Reginald Specter is New York’s toughest closer. Given the cases no one else can seem to solve, he represents some of the top companies and athletes in New York and abroad. A sarcastic, assertive and somewhat phlegmatic man, he opts to settle cases when he can before they hit the courtroom. Chronically single, he’s the epitome of a ladies man, seemingly able to attract the most beautiful women without having to say much of anything.

He lives a very isolated life outside the office. A graduate of Harvard Law, Specter really only engages in personal banter with people in his sphere of influence. The romantic relationships he does partake in are brief, and even the few where he shows a desire for longevity, are met with speculation of whether he can overcome his past and personal struggles to really love and commit to someone else.

Fine pinstripe suit with navy grenadine tie

Despite appearing on the surface as an uncaring and selfish litigator, Specter shows a deeper side, often running to the aid of those close to him. He is secretly a man of impenetrable ethics who follows a moral compass making him a force to be reckoned with for those who attempt to cause harm to someone he cares about. Despite his womanizing, he has no patience for adulterers and makes that clear on many occasions throughout the show. Emotionally distant, he is a man of confidence and charisma and one who everyone still manages to like and respect. He’ll do anything to win. So long as it doesn’t involve breaking the law or altering the truth.

Harvey Specter’s Style

Harvey Specter’s life is work, and his style is a reflection of his very specific style needs. Law has always been a conservative fashion environment, and Harvey tries to play very closely to those rules, even though the suits are obviously targetted to a younger audience. This may suprise you, given that Harvey’s sidekick dresses in an even more youthful way, with narrow lapels, short jackets and skinny ties, but let me explain.

Known for his single-breasted, made-to-measure suits with peaked lapels, big-collared shirts and windsor-knotted power ties, Harvey Specter exudes confidence through his wardrobe, at least. In fact, he wears it like armor; it’s part of his personality and that’s the reason he lacks the elegance of other Gentlemen of Style.

Harvey Specter

From the beginning of the show, he regularly tells his protege that it’s time to dress like a man. When he shows up wearing an ill-fitting and inexpensive suit, Harvey sends Mike to his tailor and instructs him not to come back until he has bought new suits.

Throughout all of the episodes, there are few times where Harvey appears in anything besides a suit or tuxedo. On those odd occasions, they are still well-fitting casual trousers or jeans with a t-shirt or a sweater. Otherwise, he is always in a suit, and, for the most part, they’re all of similar design.

How To Dress Like Harvey Specter

Harvey Specter has a few style staples that seem to be incorporated into all of his outfits.

Suit

First of all, you need a suit or better, a number of dark suits. But as always, the devil is in the details.

1. Material

In the early seasons Spector’s suits were mostly made of dark high twisted worsted wool fabrics, whereas more recently you can see silk-wool blends that add a certain shine and lustre to the fabric which make them more unusual than just regular plain wool cloth suits. Traditionally, silk is usually used in evening environments because of its shine and formal character, but done right it can even look stunning in a dark navy or blue.

Better for Specter_ Unusual striped shirt and patterned tie

2. Pattern

In regard to patterns, stick to the classic business palette of solids, sharkskin, prince of wales checks and stripes. Avoid tweeds, flannels or bold windowpane. Interestingly, he avoids pin stripes and opts for wider rope stripes. The costume designers probably wanted to differentiate the SUITS look from the Power Look in Wall Street.

suits 2

3. Peak Lapels

Harvey Specter is a big fan of peak lapels, and so is Tom Ford. Even though the lapels may seem quite wide for contemporary standards, they are not overly wide relative to past standards.. The key is to get the gorge of the lapel not too high and not too low. If it peaks out over your shoulders, it is too much, and if it is too low it looks too old school to be a Harvey Specter lapel, so definitely keep an eye on that.

Traditionally, peaked lapels are always more formal than notched ones and they provide the wearer with an elevated, elegant look that Specter clearly goes for.

Interestingly, Ross wears notched lapels not peaked ones and that’s not a coincidence. Much rather, the peaked lapels separate Specter from all the boys below him, and elevate him to a higher level. As you can see, little details such as the lapel choice can exude a clear hierarchy. Therefore, Harvey rarely appears in a suit with a notched lapel (an occasional three-piece with a notched lapel maintains the formality level) and if you want to emulate his style you should opt for peaked lapels too.

4. Milanese Buttonhole

Early on, Tom Ford had his line tailored by Zegna and to elevate his jackets from them he utilized the Milanese buttonhole, which is a finely stitched, raised buttonhole made of silk thread that is generally only found on bespoke jackets. Not many people used to be able to do it but today, more and more tailors offer it. For example, mytailor does a very nice job with it. For a true Harvey Specter style you really need a Milanese buttonhole because it separates you from the rest.

Monochromatic three piece suit

5. Flapped Pockets

Traditionally, peaked lapel jackets were often paired with jetted pockets rather than flapped ones. You can learn all about the difference here. Harvey Specter wears rather large flap pockets with his peaked lapel suits, which is also something you often see on Tom Ford suits. I am not sure whether the costume designers wanted to send a certain message with that, though chances are they did not pay much attention to it.

Personally, I think jetted pockets will look better with peaked lapels 9 out of 10 times, but if you want the Specter look, you need flap pockets as well as a flapped ticket pocket on the right.

6. Side Vents

Just like 95% of all men, Specter wears side vents and so should you. Center vents are only meant for horse-back riding and ventless only looks good if you don’t have to sit down.

7. Vests

Often, Harvey Specter is seen wearing a three-piece suit, which is classic but yet another tactic employed to create the illusion of confidence. While true Gentlemen of Style would mix things up and wear an odd vest at times, Harvey Specter sticks to his uniform and only wears matching vests.

The vests are always single breasted, never double breasted and they never feature a lapel. They are are always tailored with a V-cut, which is the most boring vest shape you can find. Even the cheapest MTM makers will able to provide you with a vest like this. On the other hand, men with style usually avoid this kind of vest, because it is just average.

Three piece suit

At least Spector adheres to the etiquette of leaving the bottom button of his waistcoat undone. At the same time, he seems to be wearing side adjusters with his pants and skips the belt, which is the proper way to do it. Traditionally, vests should only be worn with suspenders or side adjusters or both because it looks neater than with a belt.

As a side note it should be mentioned that  Specter never leaves the office without his jacket, but he can often be seen relaxing in his office or home with just the vest on.

Harvey Specter Standard Uniform

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8. Pants

Overall, Specter wears slim fit suits and so it doesn’t come as a surprise that they aren’t pleated. He wears them instead with an ironed crease. His pants are tailored slim but never tight, and he prefers a plain hem over cuffs or turn-ups.

SUITS — Season: 2 — Pictured: Gabriel Macht as Harvey Specter — Photo by: Robert Ascroft/USA Network

9. Fit

If you want to dress like Harvey Specter, you should opt for high armholes, and a rather slim cut overall. However, there are a couple areas I’m sure you can do better with, such as avoiding a gapping collar or ill-fitting sleeves. A proper tailor will be able to give you a suit with a close-fitting neck and nicely hanging sleeves without wrinkles.

At the end of the day, I suggest you copy what you like and incorporate it into your own style, rather than imitating his whole look. Harvey Specter’s look is not very creative in scope, and there is no reason to stick to exactly his example unless you too must adhere to the firm’s dress code.

USA CORPORATE — “USA Network Upfront 2013 Talent Portraits” — Pictured: (l-r) Patrick J. Adams and Gabriel Macht from Suits — (Photo by: Jill Greenberg/USA Network)

The Tailor of Harvey Specter

Supposedly, Specter wore Tom Ford Suits as well as Garrison but ultimately it is not clear whether those are the only brands who supplied clothes to the actor. At the end of the day, it should not matter, because with the right pictures, any decent tailor or MTM company should be able to recreate the look of his suits.

The dangers of thin fabric_ extreme sleeve wrinkles

Shirts

A big fan of the tall, Italian collars you will never seen him with super wide-spread or super narrow collars.

Harvey usually sticks with a standard white or pale blue shirt with barrel cuffs even though he sometimes wear French cuffs as well.

At times, he has been seen in patterned shirts such as gingham and pinstripe, but throughout most of the seasons, he tends to opt for the solid shirt. All of his shirts seem to be rather well fitting and whether it’s due to pinning them or they’re altered for Gabriel Macht’s body is unknown. However, they rarely show any signs of tugging, are never loose, but also never too tight. His sleeves hang to the base of the wrist, and his jacket sleeves usually show just a scant edge of cuff.

Fine pinstripe suit with navy grenadine tie

Ties

Harvey, in all cases, wears silk ties, never wool or any blends. The navy grenadine tie is one of his staples but he sometimes also wears these cheap looking shiny jacquard ties you can find for $3 from China.

His ties are never slim, and about 8-9cm in width, which is both classic and timeless.

His ties are always finished in a very bold windsor knot and far too big for his shirt collar. Ideally, a shirt collar should be paired with a knot that doesn’t create an overlap between the two. Watch our How To Tie A Tie Knot Videos to understand how.

Harvey’s consistent choice of a windsor knot with a large collar makes his necktie area look crowded, and the knot too large in proportion with his head. Furthermore, his ties are often knotted without a dimple, which makes them look limp and flat.

Suits group image

Shoes

Harvey’s shoe style is very simple, and that’s no surprise since shoes are often a costume designer’s weak point in TV and film – they simply aren’t that visible. Harvey usually wears simple black cap-toed derbies or brown full-brogue oxfords on lasts that aren’t all that refined. Take a look at the following image. The costume designer didn’t lace this shoe properly. Learn here how to properly lace oxfords.

As you know from the real world and your own wardrobe, shoes are hugely important detail, and Harvey’s lack of well-crafted shoes is a negative blow to his carefully constructed appearance.

Overwhelming tie knot throws off proportions

He’d be much better off choosing a smaller knot, such as a half windsor or an oriental, and always including a dimple for more dimension.

The ties, like his other accessories, are very subtle. He wears a lot of dark ties in blacks, blues and even purples, but unfortunately, his combinations are often too monochromatic. His frequent choice of a gray suit with a black tie offers little in the way of contrast and interest. Black ties are suited for funerals and little else.

With a tuxedo, he wears a black self-tie bow tie, which is the proper way to do it.

Accessories

Harvey wears very few accessories. Typically, if he is wearing a pocket square, it’s a classic white or gray and in a TV fold (learn how to fold a pocket square this way here). There really is very little sprezzatura to his outfits. As far as accessories go, they tend to really work with the rest of his wardrobe and his corporate look.

The show has really gone all out when it comes to Harvey’s style and that continues into the finer details. Harvey’s watch of choice is none other than a Patek Philippe 5004P Chronograph, which retails for around $350,000. Clearly it’s Harvey’s biggest statement of his success.

Aside from a pocket square and watch, Harvey really only wears cufflinks and those, like everything else, are usually very subtle and yet, somehow bold. They are never fashion statements, almost always standard metal without decoration or embellishment, but they’re also never a simple knot or anything too small that it would go unnoticed.

Harvey Specter’s Hair

Many people asked us to write about Harvey Specter’s hair. What initially began as a very Don Draperish style cut with a shaved part and glossy sheen has moved towards a more contemporary faux hawk in some episodes with a matte finish and imperfect sideburns.

Granted, his hair is never sloppy and he’s always clean shaven, the network has obviously tried to give him a more casual hairstyle in the latest seasons. If you’re looking for his classic look from the first seasons, here is how to get it:

Early Classic Look

To Cut It

Tell your stylist you want the back and sides short with a little growth on top to sweep it back and to the side. If they use a trimmer, ask for a #2 cut with squared off side burns and a square neckline. You also want to ask them to shave the part and to comb the hair to the side.

To Maintain It

After your shower, make sure you towel dry your hair well. Apply a small amount of gel to your hair and work it in. Dry it with a hair dryer. Then, apply some Murray’s Pomade to your hair and comb it into position. Finish with finishing spray if needed.

Later Contemporary Faux Hawk

To Cut It

All you need to do is ask your stylist for a board room appropriate faux hawk. Any stylist worth their salt should be able to do this. That or bring a picture with to show them.

To Maintain It

After drying the hair, apply some fiber or molding paste to your hair and work it in. The sides and back should already be short enough you won’t have to do anything so work the top into the position you like. It’s just that simple.

Conclusion

Harvey Specter is more about confidence than he is about details and style. Like his winner-takes-all personality, clothes are a way for him to get ahead rather than something he enjoys. While he’s an interesting example of a very particular aesthetic, there are so many more things to enjoy about dressing well than just what Harvey wears. If you haven’t already watched the show, you can tune in to season 5 on the USA Network on Wednesdays at 9/8c. Or, check them out on amazon.

This article was written by Sven Raphael Schneider and J.A. Shapira.

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When you receive an invitation nowadays, it may read Cocktail Attire, Black Tie Optional or Formal but what exactly does that mean? Back in the day, things were simpler: The Dress code was either Black Tie for less formal evening occasions and White Tie for more formal ones. The women’s dresses were chosen accordingly. Today, for many men the tuxedo is the most formal garment they will ever wear, and even then it is just rented. In the following, I want to explain what Cocktail Attire For Men is all about and what options you have for weddings, parties or events when you receive an invitation that asks for it.

Cocktail Attire For Men at a Wedding

Suit for Weddings, Cocktail Parties & Events

Interestingly, most women understand the attire required for such an event due to the aptly named, short cocktail dress (often black), whereas men generally do not have a clue as to what attire they should wear to a cocktail party. Of course, these are general wedding instructions that will be appropriate in 95% of all weddings. If the bridegroom is a flamboyant artist or someone who wears shorts and t-shirt, no matter what, try to adjust your outfit so you will not be completely out of place: For an artist wedding, go with more colorful accessories and for a completely informal wedding, skip the tie and just wear a combination with a dark jacket and lighter colored slacks – again, it is their day so you should try not to catch much attention with your outfit.

What to Wear To a Cocktail Party?

Mid Gray Fresco Suit with Pocket Square & Plain Navy Tie

Cocktail parties are supposed to be relaxed occasions, and although not wrong per se, a classic navy or charcoal business suit is probably a tad too formal. The following fashion illustration is from 1936 and shows us a nice mix of cocktail attire for men that are perfectly adequate today. This illustration clearly shows the evolution of women’s dress since the 30’s, since these women are wearing hats and suits that were then considered everyday attire rather than business wear. If the party is during the day or in the afternoon, you can add more color and patterns to your outfit, although the basics mentioned in the list above apply here as well. In the evening, you can wear darker suits, fewer patterns, and more muted colors. Below: you will find a bunch of different examples of cocktail attire for parties.

Cocktail Party Suits

The Stroller With Striped Trousers for Formal Day Event

Let’s start on the very left with the gentleman in the stroller. He leans by the fireplace, talking to the lady in red. Of course, this is an illustration, but note how neatly his coat fits around the collar, shoulders  and cuffs. There are neither gaps nor excess shirt cuff fabric to be seen. His stroller jacket is the typical single breasted, peaked lapel style with two buttons and jetted pockets. Instead of a pocket square, he opted for a red carnation that goes well with his buff waistcoat, white shirt and light blue tie. His trousers are striped but instead of the more common cashmere stripe, a special stripe for morning wear that does not really have anything to do with cashmere, he chose a wide stripe in black and white. This cocktail outfit used to be particularly popular for wear on Sunday afternoons and was often seen at the smartest cocktail bars. Today, the stroller is definitely the most formal of all the cocktail suits but yet different than another flannel blazer combination or a navy suit.

Windowpane Overplaid Sharkskin Suit – Great For Most Cocktail Parties

One of the highlights in this illustration is certainly the suit in the middle, featuring a large rust brown subdued windowpane overplaid on a grey sharkskin suit. Worn as a 3-piece suit with an ivory colored shirt and navy-red club tie,  the proportions of this suit are very moderate. It has a normal lapel width and gorge, round quarters and a fairly long jacket. In my opinion, windowpane suits are one of the most underrated outfits in menswear and hence, they are an ideal chance for you to differentiate yourself without being overly loud. As a general rule, you should keep in mind that more patterns and colors (other than navy and grey) you have in your outfit, the less formal it will be. All of the suits shown here would be appropriate attire for 95% of cocktail parties.

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Blue Cornflower Boutonniere Buttonhole Flower Silk Fort Belvedere

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Orange Golden Fritillaria Silk Boutonniere Buttonhole Flower Fort Belvedere

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Edelweiss Boutonniere Buttonhole Flower Fort Belvedere

Wide Stripe Worsted Flannel Suit – An Option for Evening Events

On the very right, we have a gentleman in a suit with yet another large pattern: the wide-spaced colored stripe. The red stripes inspired the rest of his dress, choosing a red boutonniere and Bordeaux tie. This three-piece flannel suit with stripes benefits from the peaked lapels, which provide a little more formality. If the lady in blue wear to step aside, you would see that the trousers of this suit are without cuffs, which raises the formality bar by another notch.

Striped Worsted Flannel

In combination with a white crisp shirt collar, this outfit would almost be bank appropriate, expect for the wide colored stripes.

Nevertheless, I think it is a fantastic stripe and hence I wanted to provide you with a picture of an authentic cloth sample. As you can see, the stripe is more subdued than in the illustration, which makes it even more appropriate for a cocktail suit that is different yet elegant.

Conclusion

At a wedding, try to be properly dressed without being too flashy and always keep the bride and groom in mind. For cocktail parties and receptions, leave your business navies and grays in the closet and add a splash of color. If you have a vest – even a contrasting one – wear it if it pairs well with the suit. I hope I provided you with some food for thought for cocktail attire for your next reception – have fun and enjoy company and drinks!

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When it comes to the elegant gentleman, his lifestyle is generally reflective of his sense of style, his attitude and his desires. He appreciates the finer things in life and lives his life elegantly.

In today’s economy, most of us spend the vast majority of our waking hours at work. For many, it is an enjoyable use of our time, but for others it’s dreadful. For an aspiring gentleman, work can be another sartorial outlet, and certain professions are more style-oriented than others. Therefore, we thought we’d compile a list of careers  – though hardly comprehensive – that suit the lifestyle of the elegant gentleman.

Before we get started, it’s important to note that in this day in age, a “gentleman” is no longer a titled bestowed only upon the wealthy, titled set. Today, a man chooses to be a gentleman through his actions, character, conversation, and style, among many other characteristics. A career (and susequent earnings) should in no way be considered the most important measure of a gentleman, but it can be another venue for style concious men to express themselves.

Harvey Specter is a lawyer on USA Networks Suits

Attorney

Few other jobs require their employees to wear a suit every day. Of course, there are more casual firms but, for the most part, any of the large firms will appreciate your sartorial talents. Aside from the chance to wear the clothing you love, most firms offer substantial income opportunities that provide you with the chance to afford the lifestyle you want. Combine that with a cushy office once you make partner, a beautiful sedan in the driveway and the opportunity for growth both in the firm and outside it and working as a barrister and solicitor seems like the perfect job for the elegant dandy. Of course, don’t expect to be like Harvey Specter in Suits, because that’s simply not the case.

Average Annual Income (US): $92,000

Being a doctor can afford you a sense of freedom and an affluent lifestyle

Doctor

Many of the wealthiest men in the United States are medical professionals. From plastic surgeons to family physicians the opportunities are endless for those looking to help the community but draw a substantial salary enabling you to afford a Savoir Vivre lifestyle. Some years ago I was very ill and had to be flown to Cedar Sinai hospital in Los Angeles to meet with a specialist. One of the first things I noticed from under his white coat were his Salvatore Ferragamo oxfords, the Montblanc Meisterstück in his pocket and the Audemars Piguet watch on his wrist. It was evident that he was pulling in enough money to afford his lifestyle in Beverly Hills, and his job afforded him the opportunity to express his love for elegant clothing and accessories at work.

Average Annual Income (US / Non-Specialty): $67,000 but of course many earn much more

An architect is an artist with an income

Architect

Half art and half science, an architect, has one of those high-income jobs that allows him to not only dress as he likes but to express some of his interests in his designs. There are many buildings around the world that architecture buffs can look at and recognize immediately as the work of a particular designer. And unlike most artists, the architect can see the fruition of his work before he passes away.

Average Annual Income (US): $102,000

Food writers have the chance to enjoy some of the finest foods in the world

Food Writer

For the culinarians of the world with a passion for an elegant lifestyle, there is really nothing more romantic than working as a food writer and having the opportunity to cover the best (and worst) restaurants, food festivals and events around your city. The pay isn’t as spectacular as many of the other jobs in this list but you can work your way up to a decent income once you develop some traction and get on staff at a large newspaper or magazine. Of course, the best part is all the amazing food you get to try and that most restaurants will bend over backward to please you. That is if they recognize you of course.

Average Annual Income (US): $43,000

Few jobs are as tranquil and romantic as being an artist

Artist

For most, this is more of a passion but for a chosen few, it can turn into a very lucrative career. Being an artist is all about expression and although you might not be able to afford the bespoke suits, luxury sedans, and fine writing instruments immediately, it gives you a sense of freedom and artistic expression most jobs won’t afford.

Average Annual Income (US): $41,000

Still Photographer for the independent films, short films and movie sets and projects

Photographer

Working as a professional photographer is about seeing the beauty in everything and exposing it through your lens. The artistic prowess it takes to turn the most mundane scene into a piece of art is a perfect match for many who are sartorially savvy. Not only is this a job of expression, but it’s one that can afford you a lifestyle you dream of. From runway shoots at New York Fashion Week to beachside photo shoots in France, there are no limits to what can be achieved when there’s talent behind the lens. Of course, a good photographer can earn 10 or 50 times as much as the annual income…

Average Annual Income (US): $19,000

A pilot has a certain glamorous lifestyle attached to it

Pilot

Who doesn’t dream of the opportunity to travel the world and see the sights? While most commercial and private pilots are required to wear a uniform the real benefit is when you land and having the opportunity to visit the haberdashers in the many cities and countries you’ll no doubt visit as a pilot. While layovers tend to be short (a few hours to overnight), so long as you don’t have to spend your time reviewing flight plans and doing your pre-flight, even a quick taxi ride into the shopping district can prove to be worth the flight.

Average Annual Income (US): $86,000

Being a writer can offer you a sense of tranquility and freedom of expression

Novelist

There is no job that is more romantic than being a novelist. While I’ve never had the chance to write a fictional novel, I like to think of journalism as literature in a hurry. The idea though of being able to trap yourself in an environment of tranquility for three months at a time is very appealing. Many top authors will leave home while writing and take shelter in a secluded cabin in the woods, a small villa in Italy or a little bed and breakfast in a small town in upstate New York. The romanticism of writing a novel is a perfect way for the elegant gentleman to spend his career. Plus, if the book is a bestseller you can spend your days traveling the country on tour and having a chance to experience different cuisines, see new museums and engage with many new people. It’s a great lifestyle if you can make a living doing it.

Average Annual Income (US): $69,000

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There are few lifestyles as glamorous and opportunistic as a CEO or executive

Senior Level Executive

There is no job more prominent than being a business owner or senior level executive for a major corporation. From virtually limitless income to perks that only owners get, running a business is a great way to live your life and still make a living doing it. I love that as a small business owner, I have the chance to set my own hours, work from my patio with a cigar in my hand or visit a local vintage store at 2pm on a Monday because I heard they just got a collection of bow ties in stock. The freedom of being your own boss is liberating and it affords you the opportunity to set your rules that make 2 hour lunches at the new French bistro in town a possibility and invitation only events at the museum a reality.

Small Business Owner Average Annual Income (US): $112,000 Senior Level Executive Average Annual Income (US) $94,000 – $240,000

The tie collection of a Wall Street investment banker as seen in the Wall Street Journal

Investment Banker

There’s little explanation needed here. We’ve all seen movies like Wall Street and American Psycho, and we know that when you work as successful investment banker or trader you get a lot of perks with the job. From dinners at the country club to penthouse apartments overlooking Central Park, being an investment banker comes with an income and opportunity that can give you the lifestyle you want, and of course it doesn’t hurt that you get to wear a suit to work everyday. The only thing to keep in mind is many make commission only so the hours can be brutal.

Average Annual Income (US): $102,000

Worth an est 15 million Luis Ortiz is one of New Yorks top Realtors with an affinity for Montblanc pens fast cars and bespoke suits

Real Estate Agent

Another commission only job, a lot of what a Realtor does is based on geography. An agent in New York or Beverly Hills will have the opportunity to pull in a higher income than an agent in Fargo or Duluth. However, the big benefit as an agent is that for most, the opportunity is there to make a very nice income and many Realtors live very comfortable lifestyles, driving entry level luxury cars, wearing bespoke suits and carrying the finest accessories.

Average Annual Income (US): $76,000

The offices of a professor at Cornell University

Professor

University professors are some of the most respected professionals in North America. They are experts in their field of study and handle educating the future world leaders. As a tenured professor at a well-regarded institution, you’ll have the opportunity to mold minds and be rewarded well for it. It’s a noble profession, and it makes you an instantly recognized leader and expert in your field. It’s the perfect job for an elegant gentleman who wants to share his passions and experience with the world.

Average Annual Income (US): $55,000 Average Annual Income (US Ivy League): $256,000

A sommelier at work

Sommelier

Initially the idea of putting a chef down as one of the career choices was kicked around, but ultimately we opted for a more refined restaurant role since chefs are well known for either having or having to deal with kitchen staff who aren’t exactly “elegant gentlemen” throwing around salty language and inappropriate banter behind the counter.

However, the sommelier is a very coveted role in a top restaurant. An expert in wine, they typically live what they preach and tend to enjoy the finer things in life. Unlike the kitchen staff or wait staff that usually wears some form of uniform, the sommelier in most restaurants is afforded a bit of room to select a suit or dinner jacket for their shift each evening. As a member of the North American Sommelier Association, I can vouch firsthand that many of the sommeliers I’ve had the chance to meet really do live the lifestyle they want and, of course, one perk is being able to enjoy some superlative wines or whiskies.

Average Annual Income (US): $56,000

FOR TV WEEK — DO NOT PURGE – Kevin Spacey in season 2 of Netflix’s “House of Cards.” Photo credit: Nathaniel Bell for Netflix.

Politician

Before you burst into laughter, hear me out. Sure politicians aren’t often considered the most ‘elegant’ of men, but it doesn’t mean you can’t be. Politicians have the chance to change the world, and they also have the opportunity to attend some of the most lavish events, hold office in historic buildings and live a lifestyle normally not afforded to public office.

Average Annual Income (US): $71,000

The lifestyle of a Mad Man

Advertising Account Executive

Think MadMen. These are the guys in the suits who deal with the clients. Before I became a writer, I worked in advertising as an account exec and then in finance as a trader. Both of those jobs give you the chance to wear suits to work each day, but advertising gives you some real creative control and an opportunity for expression. Unlike the design team, the account exec is responsible for acting as a liaison between the agency and the client. Therefore, they are the ones invited to the client events, mingling with the collaborative partners and taking the corner office in most firms.

Average Annual Income (US): $43,000

An art appraiser is surrounded by elegance and beauty every day

Art Appraiser

Being surrounded by art is a dream for many dandies with an appreciation for the finer things in life and as an appraiser you have the unique opportunity to see the art before the rest of the world. From private collections to museum masterpieces, the appraiser is a respected member of the art society and usually lives a lifestyle that is representative of their role. Fine art, great food and a superlative personal style.

Average Annual Income (US): $61,000

Entrepreneur

When all is said and done, the Entrepreneur probably has the greatest freedom when it comes to elegant clothing because as the founder of the business you can wear what you like and set dress codes without having to think about your boss. At the same time, if your customers think you are too flamboyant it may hurt your business but with a strong personality people can always see that you wear the clothes and not vice versa. Average Annual Income (US): varies immensely

Conclusion

This is just a handful of some of the ideal jobs for the elegant gentleman. Of course, it’s all based on personal interests and lifestyle so what’s right for one may not be a good fit for another. What do you do for a living and do you find it’s reflective of your lifestyle?

US Income Source: Indeed.com

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While most of us in the northern hemisphere are still enjoying the summer weather, now is the best time to think about your upcoming fall wardrobe. In a few short weeks, it will be getting colder again. While many loathe the colder months of the year, I always look forward to that time of the year because it allows me to wear different fabrics and layers paired with a range of accessories. Here are some sartorial tips for making the most of fall.

Beautiful flannel fabric for fall

1. Wear heavier fabrics with an interesting pattern

My first advice is to go for heavier fabrics, meaning 12 oz / 350 grams or above. The average winter fabric will be 10 oz / 300 grams, but this weight doesn’t drape as well and during the colder months of the year you’ll appreciate the added weight. Personally, I recommend flannel fabrics – grey for business and dark brown or tan for less formal suits. For jackets, go with patterns such as windowpane, glen check, or houndstooth with an overplaid. If you want something very special, have a suit made out of the aforementioned materials – for example, a brown flannel glenplaid suit. Off the rack, you will find garments like that from sophisticated haberdashers but a bespoke tailor or made to measure operation may be the way to go for something unique. Only there will you be able to choose the shade of your grey windowpane flannel suit and that can make all the difference, especially if your wardrobe has evolved past the classic foundation pieces. Many weavers produce excellent fall/winter fabrics – two that have produced consistently great stuff are Luciano Barbera and Vitale Barberis Canonico (link with sound) – especially their Winter Classics.

Mottled Grey with depth rather than a plain solid

2. Opt for fall colors

While summer is great for bright colors, the fall / winter season is made for muted colors: shades of brown, tan, red, purple, mauve, green, mustard yellow and blue will work supremely well, especially if you mix the colors. Of course, you can choose to wear bright colors as well, but ensure you have one vivid item such as a tie, pocket square or boutonniere and tone down the rest. For example, take a rather bright red tie with printed small geometric patterns,  a paisley pocket square in burgundy and some mauve socks together with a grey herringbone tweed jacket and grey flannel pants – you’ll look fantastic.

Most garments off the rack come in solid color these days, but for fall, a mottled grey, blue or tan has a warmer character that goes so much better with the season. Even if you look closely at your grey flannels, you’ll notice there are some variations in the color.

Mix patterns & textures to create understated elegance

3. Mix Color, textures & patterns

Due to the range of rather muted colors, fall outfits allow you to experiment with pattern, color and texture matching. As you may know, it’s quite easy to overdo it. The art of matching lies in the subtle harmony of all the elements. For example, look at this outfit below. You can see a sports coat in dark blue, mid blue and brown plaids, a bright purple boutonniere, a faux-madder pocket square in a greenish grey with yellow and orange geometric patterns, a white shirt and white and blue bold striped jacquard tie. Basically, there are three patterns and one bright color but it all works together beautifully, due to the color harmony and the size of the patterns.

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Wool Challis Tie in Navy Blue with Small Geometric Pattern – Fort Belvedere

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Wool Challis Tie in Mohair blue with Small Geometric Pattern Fort Belvedere

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Wool Challis Tie in Olive Green with Small Geometric Pattern – Fort Belvedere

4. Go with fall ties

Just like coats, fall ties are more muted in color and classics like real ancient madder silks or wool challis prints make for a great fall / winter outfits. Also, knit ties in silk, wool, or wool blends work well, including cashmere because they create a very different character than traditional silk tie. Generally, I wear more printed silk ties during the fall but a jacquard one can work too, as shown above. As with all ties, make sure you have the right length because it looks disproportional to have a tie stick out underneath your cardigan, waistcoat or knit vest.

Pattern, Color & Texture Matching by An Affordable Wardrobe

5. Top it off with fall specific pocket squares

Again, fall calls for muted squares, although you can also make this a great, bright centerpiece if the rest of your outfit is subdued. Regarding texture, it pays to alternate with the tie. For example, a jacquard tie goes well with a printed madder silk square. Printed ties work well with wool challis squares, and wool ties work well with printed silk. These are just a few ideas for you to play with. After a while, you should develop a sense of what works well. Just make sure to avoid wearing the same pocket square tie combination too often – there are so many ways to create new outfits, even with a few items! Personally, I never wear the same outfit twice, even if it’s just the socks that are different, or the cuff links… try to experiment, and you’ll be surprised what you can pull off.
Find some low-light outfit pictures below:

6. Reorganize your closet

Even if you already have a fantastic fall wardrobe and accessories, make sure you see them, otherwise, you just won’t wear it. For example, take a look at Sean Crowley’s tie collection – layered ties make for forgotten ties.  The same is true for your shirts, sport coats and shoes. Even if you have a small closet try to organize it in a way so you can see what you have, even if that means that you have to sort through your collection and get rid of some pieces because you will end up wearing more.

Oxblood Cordovan Tassel Loafers by Meermin, with red blue striped socks by Fort Belvedere & red Indochino slacks

7. Brown shoes are your friend

Of course, you can wear red, tan or green shoes in fall, but your most versatile option is definitely brown. Now, Brown “narrows” your color choice down to about 350 because there are so many different shades! On top of that, you can choose different leather textures and finishes. The most classic is the plain box calf finish, but suede is particularly suited for flannel because both have a certain texture that works well together. Of course, there are all kinds of exotic leathers such as elephant or alligator, but in terms of versatility, a trio of chocolate brown suede derby shoes, a cognac brown full brogue and oxblood cordovan loafers will get you very far because you can combine them with so many things. Antiqued cherry monk straps would also work with many things, but if you are still building a wardrobe keep these three shoes in mind.

Click here to learn how to wear brown shoes.

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Blue Cornflower Boutonniere Buttonhole Flower Silk Fort Belvedere

8. Wear a boutonniere

One of the easiest and least expensive ways to create a unique outfit is to add a boutonniere. Probably no other accessory will elevate your outfit as noticeably as a boutonniere because so few men wear them. Since fresh flowers can be hard to come by, silk boutonnieres in smaller sizes are recommended, because big flowers will easily overwhelm your outfit. Click here to learn more about Boutonnieres.

Bruce Boyer in tweed, printed tie, unbuttoned shirt collar and printed scarf by Rose Callahan

9. Wear silk scarves, a trench coat & a quilted jacket

During the transitional period from summer to fall and sometimes even winter, a trench coat will be one your most valuable companions. Not only does it give you a pleasing silhouette, but it also protects you from the rain and works with almost any other garment. While wool or cashmere scarves are the standards during the winter, either double sided silk and wool scarves or just printed silk scarves are a perfect accessories for your trench or sports coat. For more casual outfits, a quilted jacket is great for travel because it’s lightweight yet warm when you need it to be.

10. Get an Overcoat

Once January rolls around, even trench coat with wool lining will be too cold especially in the sleeves, and so you should look for at least one overcoat. Over the past few years, we wrote a number of definitive articles on various overcoat styles; read them here.

Outfits

Last but not least, I would like to present a few fall outfits from the likes of Luciano Barbera, Dr. Andre Churchwell  and yours truly.

The telephone rings early in the morning. It is your sister informing you that great Aunt Hortense has died. You like Aunt Hortense. She mixed you your first martini when you were sixteen and told you stories of dancing to dawn to the sounds of the Big Band orchestras. After you put down the receiver, you wonder why do I do now? What do I say? And yes, what do I wear? A few generations ago these questions would not have to be asked. People conformed to established rituals surrounding death and grief without questioning them.

Funeral Etiquette Video

How It Used To Be

There were things to do and one simply got on with doing them. The Victorians, for example, rarely if ever talked about sex in polite company, even within the circle of those of their same gender. However, they talked about death incessantly and developed rigid customs concerning mourning.

If one’s spouse or parent died, one wore black for a full year and then for six months, “half mourning” which meant gray for men and mauve for women. These traditions carried on well into the twentieth century and for some cultures remain in place today. Presently, there are few carved in stone rituals, and people have questions about the etiquette  surrounding death.

Dark suits are obligatory for funerals

Letter of Condolence

The very first thing that one must do when a death occurs is to acknowledge it. If you learn of the death of someone whom you knew or if you discover that a relative or close friend of a co-worker or friend has died, you first sit down at your desk, take out paper and an envelope and write a letter of condolence. This is important especially if you are not planning to attend a funeral service or if there is no funeral service. Even if you attend a service, a letter is a nice, but not obligatory, thing to do. I said you write a letter of condolence.

What Not To Do

You do not send an email or post a “thinking of your family and you” entry on a funeral home’s website or Facebook. Death requires more from you. A handwritten letter is where one begins. It need not be long or witty, but a sincere message with a personal touch is best.

Be Sincere

If you did not know the person that well you can simply say something along the lines of, “I was deeply sorry to learn of the death of your aunt. Please accept my heartfelt sympathy. Your family and you are in my thoughts and prayers.” Just make sure to be genuine. If you are not religious, drop the prayers. These letters will serve as tangible reminders for the grieving that people care for them or cared for the person they are mourning.

Windsor Castle Mourning Stationary with black border

Flowers

You may want to acknowledge the death of someone in a more tangible manner than just a letter. In years gone by one sent flowers to the funeral home or a mourner’s house. The purpose of the flowers was quite practical. It offsets the odor of death and the not-too-perfected embalming process. However, these days many people regard an overabundance of flowers as an excessive waste of money. Instead in the death notice or at the funeral home the names of one or two favorite charities of the deceased are noted in case one would prefer to make a memorial donation rather than send a spray of flowers. The choice is up to you if you want to make a charitable donation or not and it is up to you ultimately to which charity you would like to donate. The charity will inform the deceased family of the donation, or the funeral home will prepare a list of donors names and addresses. The amount of the gift is never mentioned.

Instead in the death notice or at the funeral home the names of one or two favorite charities of the deceased are noted in case one would prefer to make a memorial donation rather than send a spray of flowers. The choice is up to you if you want to make a charitable donation or not and it is up to you ultimately to which charity you would like to donate. The charity will inform the deceased family of the donation, or the funeral home will prepare a list of donors names and addresses. The amount of the gift is never mentioned.

Thatcher funeral

Funeral or Memorial Service?

People ask what is the difference between a “funeral” and a “memorial service.” The answer really lies in whether the deceased is there in body or just in memory.

If there is a coffin and a burial following, it is a funeral service. If burial has taken place or the body cremated (with or without an urn present), then it is a memorial service. On occasion, the family may opt for a private funeral service and burial and a public memorial service at a later time. Death notices in newspapers or online at funeral homes will indicate to you what type of service you are attending and where the service will be held.

Funeral Service at the Arlington Cemetery

The traditional funeral service is slowly becoming extinct. It is often replaced with a “celebration of a person’s life.” This is all part and parcel of our death-denying culture. As Ecclesiastes (it’s in the Bible) says, “there is a time to dance and a time to mourn.” A memorial service is not a time to dance. There may be smiles and slight laughs at a funeral as we remember the uniqueness of the person we are gathered to remember, but a Dean Martin-style roast at funeral is not.

If you do attend a “celebration” at a country club where liquor is served, go easy on it. This would be a time for a dignified response to a person’s life even if he or she was the life of the party. You dress and behave in exactly the same way you would at a traditional funeral. You express your sympathy to the family; you listen to the stories told about your late friend or relative, and then you depart.

We cannot be assured any longer that the deceased was involved in any organized religion. If a minister is asked to officiate at the service, he or she is in charge and will ask (or should ask) the deceased loved ones for remembrances of the one who has died. Certain rites of the Church or other religious faith will be observed. It is quite alright to ask before the service of the funeral director or officiating clergy what to do or expect during the service. Most people are quite open to discussing their religious traditions. Normally, however, all one has to do is to show up, express one’s sympathy to the family, sit down, and observe.

Your phone ringer is off, and the device is stowed during the service.

Orthodox Jewish funeral service

If you are attending a Jewish funeral service, it usually takes place in a Synagogue or funeral home one day after the death, but never happens on the Saturday Sabbath.   Men are required to wear a head covering known as a kippah or yarmulke.  If you do not own one, one will be provided for you as you enter the sanctuary. Married women are asked to wear headscarves at an Orthodox service. Gentlemen are encouraged to wear dark suits and ties.   The service is usually about the same duration as a Christian funeral. If you are able, you will be asked to travel to the graveside for the burial. The casket is lowered and, if you desire, you may join others in the act shoveling soil on the casket.  Do not feel obliged to do so.  Following the internment, most people will adjourn to a family member’s home and begin a seven-day observation called Shiva.  If you missed the funeral service, you might visit the family during this time.  Never send flowers to a Jewish funeral.  Usually, one makes a donation to charity or plants a tree in Israel through the Jewish National Fund.

Like Jews, Muslims do not delay in having a funeral service.  The funeral service will take place in the Mosque.  You will be required to remove your shoes and deposit them in the appropriate location.  Therefore, make sure your socks are impeccably clean.  Women must wear scarves on their heads. Suits are always dark.  Most Muslim men will not be wearing neckties, but if you want to wear a tie, you may.  Muslims never embalm, and burial occurs within twenty-four hours of death.  A service often occurs after burial.

If you attend a Buddhist funeral, you should wear conservative attire.  You will notice that the mourners are wearing white, the traditional mourning color.  Do not wear red which is the color for joy and happiness.  It is mandatory that you remove your shoes at a Buddhist funeral as at a Muslim one.

Muslim funeral

Traditions

At many funerals today, a close family member or friend is asked to deliver a eulogy. A eulogy is a heart-felt tribute to the one we are there to remember. It is not an opportunity to get one last word in about the deceased. It is not a comedy act. It also is not all about the speaker. It is about the way the person who died and the way she or he impacted upon people’s lives.If you are delivering a eulogy, this is your chance to speak about someone in a very dignified manner.

If you are asked to deliver a eulogy, this is your chance to speak about someone in a very dignified manner. Make sure to sit down and take your time when you write it. Find the right balance between grief, cherished memories, and funny occasions. The length should be two letter or DIN A4 pages in standard font size 12 to 14 depending on the font you choose, but Arial, OpenSans or Times New Roman are best.

Avoid any remarks about drinking or dating habits of the deceased and do not bring up anything else that could be perceived as embarrassing or disrespectful.

Funeral back in the day

What to Wear to a Funeral

We all have many suits in our closet. Well, maybe not. However, we should have one dark suit on hand for occasions such as a funeral.

1. A black suit is your number one choice but a navy suit or a charcoal gray suit, and if you don’t have anything else, even a midnight-blue pin stripe are all acceptable. In the heat of summer, I think it is also correct to wear unless one is an immediate family member of the deceased, a tan summer suit. Your shoes should be black whether they be wing tips or captoes.
2. Use a white linen pocket square. You can learn how to fold it here.
3. Opt for solid white shirts with French cuffs because it suits the formality of the event.
4. One’s tie should be conservative.
5. Solid black ties are quite appropriate for someone who has lost an immediate family member.
6. If you are just attending a service, gray or blue striped tie will work well.

What NOT To Wear

You never show up to a funeral home or Church service wearing jeans, a golf shirt, a baseball cap, or sneakers. Likewise, women should avoid sequins, bright colors, and big jewelry. Even if the men sitting next to you are thusly attired, you know that you know better and are more respectful than they are. (Besides dear Aunt Hortense liked a man in a suit).

Funerals are one of the reasons why every man must own one good dark colored suit. You will be able to wear it on other occasions as well. With the right tie, it is perfect for weddings or job interviews. For very formal funerals, formal morning dress may be required. If you don’t own a morning coat, a stroller suit with a black vest would also be appropriate.

Thank you Notes

If you are in the position of having lost someone, you know how difficult those first few weeks are. Nevertheless, the words and actions of people who have expressed their sympathy to you must be acknowledged. As exhausted as you may be in the weeks that follow a funeral, you need to be spending your time writing letters of thanks to those who wrote you personal letters, sent flowers, or made memorial donations. This is one of the final kind things you can do for your loved one, acknowledging your gratitude to people who knew him or her and responded with a memorial. It is also about telling people that you appreciate their kindness during this trying time. The task of writing thank you letters can be divided up among family members who can write a personal note. In case you don’t know who will be writing, a simple, “on behalf of Hortense’s family, I thank you for your kind donation to St. Philip’s Church” or whatever charity will do.

If you received a letter of condolence, one simply writes something like, “Thank you for your words of sympathy. I gathered strength and encouragement from them.” Pre-printed sympathy cards to which a person just affixes his signature need not be answered, but a personal letter does.

FDR with Mourning Band

Gone are the days when a man would wear a black arm band for a six months after losing a parent, spouse or sibling. (Those arm bands though did serve a purpose. They said to the world, “be gentle; this man is grieving.” However, in the months that follow a loss, one should never be in a hurry “to get back to normal.” The past normal no longer exists. A new normal without a loved one will be found.

Military Funeral

There is an etiquette surrounding death and grief. To those who say that we do not need to do these things ‘nowadays,’ the reply should be: Has death stopped happening and do we no longer mourn? The traditional rites, choice of clothing, and condolences are ways of showing respect to the person who died and to remind us that he or she had a life worth remembering. They also are our ways of offering support to those who miss them the most. Of course, mourning and grief are very personal matters. In any case, Aunt Hortense would approve.
Insert Picture of Funeral Cortege.

Native American Traditions

Thanks to our reader Evan, you can find some guidelines about Native American funerals.

Before going to the fire circle, ask someone already in attendance if it is appropriate to enter at that time. Close family and friends may sometimes wish to be alone for hours at a time.

Do not wear formal attire. A linen shirt tucked into black jeans is generally the upper limit of formality.

When entering the circle, place a pinch of tobacco or whatever offering is provided into the fire.

If water is provided, cleanse yourself.

Always circle clockwise.

Never attempt to tend the fire in any way. Trained tenders will be caring for the fire.

When leaving the fire circle, always offer a pinch of tobacco or the alternate offering to the fire.

The only interaction permissible with the fire is the offering. Additional offerings may be given, provided they are accompanied by a prayer, generally nonverbal.

Always offer your seat to someone who was closer to the departed.

Traditional Chinese Funeral

Chinese Funeral Traditions

Traditionally, people in China wear all white clothes for a funeral. And, depending on the relation with the deceased, there are five levels for funeral dress:

1. In the highest level is reserved for sons, parents, grandparents or wives for husbands and people wear unhemmed clothes made of the roughest fabric (usually hemp fabric);

2. The second level applies to sons for mothers or mothers for first sons or husbands for wives. People should wear hemmed clothes made of the fabric finer than in the highest one;

3. The third level is for men, married sisters or aunts or cousins of the father’s side or women of brothers or grandparents-in-law people should wear clothes that are finer than the second one;

4. The fourth level is for granduncles or grandaunts or for grandparents on mothers’ side and people wear clothes that are once again finer than the third level;

5. The last level is reserved for cousins or uncles on the mother’s side or husbands for parents-in-law. These people should wear the finest clothes of all levels.

Obviously, these rules treated men and women unequally and, fortunately, they are not often followed anymore today.

Wake or Visitation

A wake or a visitation are a social gathering often held at the home of the deceased or the funeral home. Often, people who cannot attend the funeral will be able to go to the wake. The main goal of a visitation is to give the group of people who were friends with the deceased a chance to say goodbye in a social context.

The same dark suit requirement is also appropriate for wakes, especially evening wakes. However if , the deceased was a member of a the police force, firefighters brigade or sports team at the time of passing, it is not uncommon for teammates or co-workers to wear their uniforms to indicate a sense of kinship and a recognition of the decedent’s life, values, spirit, and commitment.

Do you know more about funeral etiquette in other cultures? Please let us know in the comments.

It’s once again time for Pitti Uomo pictures! This time around, the GG team including Sven Raphael Schneider took all the pictures which means we were able to curate a good selection focusing on specific outfits and details. 

Florence, Italy

This is where Pitti Uomo takes place – at the Fortezza da Basso in Florence.

Fortezza da Basso – Fairgrounds of Pitti Uomo

As always, rather than just providing the pictures we highlight a few Do’s & Don’ts, so they are more useful to you.

Black Hat, Grey Suit, Black Overcoat and navy tie

In this outfit, we see a black hat, grey glen check suit, black overcoat and navy tie. The black hat, black sunglasses, and tie bar are all fine with the outfit as a whole, but the one thing that stands out negatively is the navy tie.

On its own, a navy tie is a very versatile accessory but when you wear black it simply looks bad because it is close in color yet different. So when you wear black, avoid combining it with navy.

Brown hat with dark blue overcoat, windowpane sport coat, cream paisley tie

In this example, we have a similar combination with slightly more contrast. The hat is brown, but it works well with the tie and camel brown always pairs well with navy. The grey windowpane suit is not the best choice in my opinion, but it works. Maybe a charcoal brown suit would have been a better choice, but it is still a better outfit than before because the colors work together.

Classic Double-Breasted Herringbone Overcoat with dark scarf

This seasoned gentleman with grey hair keeps it simple going with a double breasted 6×2 herringbone overcoat in salt and pepper and pairs it with a dark scarf and sunglasses. Of course it is simple but sometimes it is more flattering to go with something simple that works for you rather than something elaborate that doesn’t.

Covert coat with purple chalk stripe suit with a brown hat

Overall, the older gentlemen at Pitti seem to wear generally less flamboyant outfits which often makes them better dressed than their younger counterparts. Of course, as a young chap you experiment and everyone learns along their sartorial journey. However, if the seasoned guys like this gentleman with a covert coat, purple chalk-striped suit and hat dress well, it pays to analyse their outfits to improve one’s own.

Denim Shirt with Brown vest, similar sport coat and light brown overcoat and light brown grenadine tie

The colors in this outfit are a bit more daring and unusual, and they work rather well together. However, there are some ways to improve this outfit:

1. The tie is too long; it should never show underneath your vest
2. On a single breasted waistcoat, it looks better to leave the bottom button undone
3. When you choose a vest, make sure it matches your jacket exactly, or it is in stark contrast. This chap is wearing a vest that is very similar in color, but the weave is different, and the sportcoat has an overcheck, and that just looks strange.
4. If you decide to wear a button-down collar with a tie, make sure it is a bit taller, so the tie knot can breathe. Otherwise, it looks too stacked.

Valentino Ricci in dark green overcoat without a scarf

Double Breasted Overcoat without scarf and popped collar – a very common trend at Pitti

Double breasted overcoats were very popular this season, and personally, I love them. However, Pitti is in Italy, and it’s not cold. So most of the gents sweat under their multi-layered outfits and hence many forego the scarf and flap up their collars instead.

While this is a practical way to keep you warm when you have no other choice, it looks particularly strange with peaked lapels. A scarf tied in the right way is simply much more elegant.

When it is too warm for a scarf, chances are you can leave the overcoat at home and go with a lighter topcoat or trench coat.

Flamboyant outfit with bold colors, patterns, patchwork scarf and cane

Pitti is known for the Pitti Peacocks – a term that I coined years ago and that seems to have caught on.

A lot of people try to catch the photographers’ eyes and what could be better to wear bold colors and patterns that you won’t find anywhere else? Or so they think…

At the end of the day, it’s a look that you should avoid until you intentionally want to gather this kind of attention. In the real world, I can think of no situation where you would wish to dress in that way but of course, as always: each to his own.

Gui Bo from Men Need More Style

Just recently, we interviewed Gui Bo. Learn all about his style here.

Light Blue Wool Sprot coat with contrast buttons in 6×2 DB style with hat, brown herringbone scarf and blue twill shirt with peccary gloves

This is certainly a daring outfit. Traditionally, tweed is made into single breasted coats, but since it’s Pitti, it had to be double breasted ;).

The color is stunning, and the contrasting buttons work, and so does the scarf and the brown pecarry gloves in the pocket and the brown glasses.

However, the hat is too dark and clashes too much. Navy or brown would have been preferable. Also, even though the shirt has different twill structure, the color is too close, especially from a few feet away. Hence, a lighter shade of blue or a pale yellow would have been a better choice.

Light brown overcoat with patch pockets with cloth covered buttons, Winchester shirt with barrel cuffs and blue rope striped suit

At Pitti, people always try to wear unusual sunglasses to standout from the crowd and so does this gentleman with his octagonal sunglasses. They are certainly a statement piece, and so is his overcoat.

It features patch pockets that are a casual detail as well as cloth covered buttons, which is traditionally something you find on more formal garments. A pair of brown horn or corozo buttons or even plastic would have looked better than these.

This is a perfect example why it pays to understand the fundamentals of classic men’s style.

Muted Colors in grey and brown with red hair

Overall a good outfit with muted colors. Maybe the overcoat and suit could have been a little more contrasting, but the red hair and tan shoes are the accents in this ensemble.

So if you have features that make you noticeable, take that into consideration when you dress and tone it down a bit, and you’ll look better.

Navy textured three piece suit with pink turtleneck, tie and paisley overcoat and brown hat

The three piece suit with DB vest is a great outfit with a subtle detail that separates you from the crowd.  However in this case, some other accents were added, which destroy the classic look.

1. The bold overcoat is certainly out there, and unless you are an artist, chances are it won’t work for you.
2. Keep the layers in mind. Three piece suits are warmer than two piece suits, and when you add an overcoat, it gets even hotter. Adding a sweater, and even worse, a turtleneck sweater is an overkill
3. When you wear a turtleneck sweater, wear just that and skip any neckwear, such as the tie in this example because is just looks bad.

Partner Look with gray striped suits with navy cardigans, blue shirts, dotted socks, etc

These two gents opted for a partner look with little deviations. On the one hand, they matched the suits, overcoats, socks, cardigan, and shirt colors but they chose different shoes, ties hats and sunglasses that makes it look very different unless you take a closer look.

I can’t think of any real situation where this kind of partner look might be a good idea – maybe you come up with one. Let me know if you do.

Pattern Overload & Lots of Accessories

This gentleman has lots of patterns and textures going. On top of that, the outfit contains many colors. The scarf itself is very nice but when it shows underneath your buttoning point, it accentuates your crotch, and that’s not and advantageous look in my opinion, and a scarf looks better tied. What do you think?

Shawl Collar burgundy overcoat with bold checked with grey striped trousers and Ralph Lauren slippers

Shawl collars are not widely available and hence it is a good way for people to show that they got a custom garment.

Personally, I think the overcoat is made from a fantastic Donegal tweed cloth in burgundy, and the shawl collars work, although an Ulster collar would have been even better.

The grey trousers and tie all harmonize together, and even the dark Albert slippers work regarding color. But generally, they are better around the house than on the street.

Skinny look dark blue herringbone 6×2, light blue shirt with navy tie, brown and beige houndstooth sport coat with light grey skinny pants, dark green wool socks and brown full brogue socks

If you are thin and young, you can wear skinny clothes, just like this young man in the picture on the left. The fit is trim, the color combinations ok. Maybe different socks and black shoes would have been a better choice.

Also, if your overcoat has a chest pocket, add a pocket square and if you don’t want that, get a coat without a pocket. In any case, be deliberate.

Moreover, overcoats look smarter when worn with a scarf. If it is not very cold, get a lighter scarf, but it will always make you look more handsome.

Tan Overcoats were very popular at Pitti Uomo 89

If you are unsure what overcoat color to get, camel is always a good start because it pairs well with many colors.

Tomasz Miler from Poland with blue blazer, fur collar, tattersall checked shirt and printed tie

Fur collars can look very handsome, and they keep you warm but it is not for everyone, and it will put the spotlight on you. So think twice if that’s what you want to achieve. In this outfit, you can see haberdasher Tomasz Miler from Poland, and it works quite well for him. For more picture of this coat, take a look here.

Turtleneck, Dark Colors, and Textures

Turtleneck sweaters have been very popular at Pitti this year, and if you like the look, go for it. Personally, I am not a huge fan of them but each to his own.

Yours Truly in Firenze wearing a vintage brown flannel glen check suit

Since I was taking pictures all day, it was important for me to have great flexibility in the armholes. Moreover, an overcoat would have limited my range of movement and hence I needed a warm cloth.  Therefore, I chose to wear a vintage A. Caraceni glen check suit in brown flannel. It had very small armholes so I could hold my camera all day. The flannel fabric kept me warm especially since the coat was double breasted and so I did not feel cold.

The collar pin elevated my wool tie knot in a nice manner, and the yellow boutonniere provided a little pop.

What do you think about these outfits? Do you know the names of any of the gentlemen we posted? Please share your thoughts in the comments, thanks!

Once you have properly prepared for your interview, it’s time to pick your outfit. Many men ask us what to wear to an interview, and while it always depends on the job field, and the particular environment, we are going to help you to put together the perfect look for a job interview.

Video

Make sure to watch this in-depth video below What To Wear To An Interview that explains the Do’s & Don’ts of interview outfits. If you enjoy it, please give us a thumbs up and subscribe, thank you!

What To Wear To An Interview: Suit & Tie

You guessed it. Regardless of what job you’re applying for, a dark suit and a tie will rarely be the wrong choice. Too be clear, a “suit” means a matching jacket and pants, and not an odd jacket combination.

The Exception to the Rule

Ideally, you don’t want to be “not wrong” but rather perfectly dressed for the job. A suit and tie express that you have respect for the opportunity, and that’s a good thing. At the same time, if you are seeking for a job at a casual design agency, a young startup or an outdoor construction or gardening company where everyone wears cargo shorts, a suit and tie can make you seem like you do not fit in.

Therefore, it is important that you do your interview prep-work. It is particularly helpful if you know somebody from the company so you can ask them about the proper interview attire.

Dark Flannel Suit with Shepherd’s Check Silk Tie & TV Fold Pocket Square

The Office Job / Traditional Job: Stick with Classics

If you interview for an office or corporate job, it is always safe to wear a dark suit and regular tie, no matter if you are an accountant or a social worker. Even if nobody at that office wears a suit to work, showing up to the interview in business attire is a fool proof way of ensuring you appear serious.

The interview is not the time to be flashy or showcase your flair for style. It’s a serious meeting, and it requires a classic, dark suit. We recommend:

• A solid navy suit, charcoal or a grey suit – 2 or 3 button single-breasted with notched lapels or double-breasted
• Do NOT wear a black suit – those are for funerals only
• Wear a solid or striped white or light blue dress shirt with French cuffs and cufflinks or a barrel cuff. Skip the button down collar and go for a classic or semi-spread collar. Avoid bold prints, or contrast stitching.

• Wear a silk necktie: if you have a striped shirt, go with a solid grenadine tie in burgundy, red or blue. It provides texture yet it is very classic. If you go with a solid shirt, go with a muted, non-flashy pattern such as small polka dots, micropatterns or stripes. Muted colors in burgundy, mustard yellow, blue and bottle green are better than bright pink or bright blue. Avoid solid satin neckties because they are shiny and look cheap.
• Do not wear bow ties as they may be perceived as too eccentric
• It is important that you tie a proper tie knot because a loose knot implies sloppiness or discomfort when you want to be seen as confident and competent. The right tie knot helps you with that.  The four in hand knot or Oriental are best, but if you prefer others, you can choose those too. Be careful with the Double Windsor, because it may make you look like a sleazy insurance salesman. A dimple is always a good idea.

Dark Navy Suit with striped tie and TV fold pocket square

• A proper white linen pocket square folded in a TV fold is best for a job interview because it is classic, non-flashy but polished looking. Note, years back some interviewers might have considered it arrogant to wear a pocket square but today it is entirely acceptable. However, there may still be people out there who feel intimidated by individuals who wear pocket squares, and if you want to play it safe, you can skip the pocket square.

Shadow Stripe over the calf Ribbed Socks in Dark Navy Blue & Royal Blue with Burgundy Derby Dress Shoe

• Wear Over The Calf Socks. A big mistake that many beginners make is to wear cheap, short black socks that slide down and expose hairy legs. This is unacceptable, and therefore, over-the-calf socks are the only option you have. With your solid dark suit, get something solid that matches the pants, subtle stripes, or solids with clocks that match the pants. Avoid contrasting socks or flashy patterns.
• Shoes: Black captoe Oxfords or Derbies are your best bet. If you do not have those, semi, quarter or full brogues work as well. TIP: make sure to lace your Oxfords properly – click here to learn how to lace Derby shoes

Allen Edmonds Park Avenue Oxfords

• Jewelry: Keep it simple, you do not want to add any lapel chain, wristbands, or gigantic watches to your outfit because it just provides an opportunity to dislike you. Of course, if you know that your interviewer is a watch lover, it pays to have a beautiful piece but avoid show-off accessories because it may be held against you. Cufflinks are right, a wedding band too, but other rings should be taken off.
• During winter, wear dark gloves in grey, a subtle scarf, and dark overcoat. Do not wear performance jackets or anything of that kind with your suit, because it makes you look like an amateur
• Leave your backpack at home. A backpack makes you look like a schoolboy rather than a professional adult. Instead, go with a briefcase or satchel, ideally in black or dark brown leather.
• Inspect your outfit for any issues such as loose threads, holes or stains because you do not want to show up to your interview looking sloppy. After all, the interviewer should be able to picture you representing their company in the best light possible

Startups are generally more relaxed and a suit may give the impression you are an outsider who does not fit in

The IT / Creative / Startup Job – Mix It Up

In general, startups, creative agencies or IT companies have more relaxed hierarchies. Especially creatives often like to dress in an unusual way that stands out from the crowd. In startups, dress codes are often not even existent, and the motto is “anything goes”. If you apply for a job outside the traditional environment, wearing a dark suit and tie may put you at a disadvantage. That being said, if you are called out on your suit, you can always highlight that you wanted to show the proper respect, and no interviewer will hold that against you. If they do, chances are it is not a nice place to work anyways because who wouldn’t want to hire someone who shows proper respect?

So, what to wear for an interview in these unusual sectors? The answer is not clear, and it depends on many factors. What is important to remember is that you should feel comfortable and confident when wearing these clothes, all while showing respect.

• For example, instead of a suit, you could wear a jacket or a blazer with contrasting trousers.
• Brown shoes instead of black
• A more casual shirt
• Add a touch of sprezzatura to your outfit; you can dress it up by adding a boutonniere, a pocket square, coloured shoelaces. Just make sure not to overdo it – one accent is enough. 

Outdoor Jobs require different outfits

Outdoor Jobs

If you apply for an outdoor job or a position where you get dirty, a suit may be overkill, but you should still step up your wardrobe game and wear something more formal and polished than you would as a work outfit.  In any case, you always want to ensure that you exude the same degree of seriousness and professionalism if you were wearing a suit.

Avoid bold stripes but subtle stripes are ok

Conclusion

The goal of interview attire is to make you look professional, and competent and to show respect for your potential employer. Therefore, most people should wear a dark suit with the proper accessories. However, if you are in a field where a suit would be overkill you can deviate from the classic interview outfit but it is essential that you always keep

No matter what you do for a living, interviewing will be something you have to do. 

Whether it be a first job as a teenager, a first career as a graduate or simply a change in your path, being able to successfully navigate the interview process can often mean the difference between a job offer or a raise on the one hand and a rejection on the other.

In this article, we’re going to focus on 8 job search and interview tips that can help you get the job if you prepare them before the actual interview. On top of that, we discuss interview questions in our next guide, so stay tuned.

By following a few simple steps, and preparing your interview, landing your dream job can soon become a reality. We already discussed What To Wear To An Interview so have a look.

1. Figure Out the Job You Want

This step may actually take the longest, because finding a new job starts with reflecting on what you do and do not want in a job. It’s a tough question, and it also needs to be answered in terms of what is realistic. Do you crave fulfillment, authority, or just a paycheck? Ask yourself what you do and do not like about your current job, and then figure out how you can apply those needs to a job search. More flexibility could mean looking for companies that are known for flexible work policies; more advancement opportunities could mean looking for rapidly growing firms. Create a list of your needs and create a matching list of target companies.

Finally, create a back-up plan in case your goal job is out of reach. It may be to stay in your job for a while longer, make a lateral move, or make a small step in the right direction.

2. Network, and Then Network Some More

It’s hard to make an online job application stand out these days – filters and HR staff will quickly discard candidates based on factors that you as the job applicant are not likely to know. Instead, building your network is the face-to-face, human way to increase your exposure and harness the knowledge of others to position yourself for a job. Personal recommendations and connections nearly always trump the faceless people in the resume pile, so pull up your LinkedIn profile and start asking friends, relatives and former colleagues at your target firms if you can buy them a coffee.

The key to successful networking is to show genuine interest in the knowledge people have about their field and company. You want to learn from them, and if they learn enough about your character and goals they will likely be willing to help you. They will also give you valuable information about the culture, pay and benefits of a company that would otherwise be taboo to ask about at an interview. Once you’ve developed a relationship with them, ask if they would be willing to put you in touch with other people and if they can inform you of upcoming job openings before they are officially posted.

Unlike with an interview, networking is based almost entirely on the willingness of people to help you because you asked.  It’s important that you show them you appreciate their time and insights, either through a thank you note or email.

The next step in finding the perfect job is to check online job boards of the companies you’ve targeted. Once you’ve found a listing, you can ask your network if anyone knows anything about it.

3. Do Your Homework

Once you’ve developed your short list of jobs you want to apply for, it’s time to conduct a more research. A good start is to check out their website so you can learn about the company, what they stand for and what they are trying to achieve.

Second, take a look at sites such as Glassdoor.com where employees of the company can anonymously post information about what they like and dislike about the job, company or direct manager. They can also list salary ranges if the ad doesn’t come with one and tips or tricks for the interview process. Bear in mind that, people are far more likely to write about the negative things than positive experiences.

A unique ultra modern resume only works in certain industries

If the job post does list specific people, try to locate them on websites like Facebook, LinkedIN and Twitter to learn a little bit more about them. Even if you won’t be working with them and they’re just conducting the interview, having some information on hand about their likes and dislikes is a great way to develop a rapport with them. This doesn’t mean finding out what their kids names are or that they spent last weekend in The Hamptons. We’re going for generic information.

 4. Keep The Cover Letter Clear & Simple

Once you’ve established that you want to work with a certain organization, it’s time to provide them with your resume or C.V. To do that, you want to write a short cover letter.

Do you need one? It’s never a bad idea!

If you’re sending in the application via email, the actual body of the email can serve as the cover letter. It should briefly introduce you, explain in one or two sentences why you’re perfect for the job and showcase your enthusiasm and interest in the opportunity. Often recruiters will take a quick glance at the cover letter and decide whether to look over the resume based on what’s said in the letter. It’s vital that every cover letter being sent out appears to be written for that specific job.

Follow the directions listed in the listing exactly. Many employers will provide very strict instructions in job ads to see which candidates are capable of taking direction.

It seems obvious but ensure that if your resume is being sent to a specific person, that you spell their name correctly in the cover letter and don’t use gender-specific titles like Mr. or Mrs. if they have a unisex name. It’s also wise to only refer to women as Ms. if you’re unsure whether they are married or not. Once you are finished writing it, have someone else read over it. Ideally, you seek out a person with HR experience.

An example of a crowded resume

5. Your Resume Must Be Specific

If you are targeting specific industries or positions, the best idea is to have a job-specific resume. Your resume is the first impression and you only get one of those. It is your one opportunity to brag, but it’s equally important to remain humble. Always keep it to one page, and keep the font size readable. Nobody is going to read a C.V. that looks similar to fine print. Less is always more and it shows that you can break down complex things to their essential parts.

Be Honest & Highlight Your Achievements

That’s a must. Don’t embellish or lie about your experience or qualifications. Ensure that everything on your resume is accurate, but do try to market yourself in a positive light.

For employers, the best indicator of future performance is your past performance.  Use specific numbers, and time-frames that show your accomplishments. If you can show your potential employer these three things, chances are very good to get the job.

1. How you made your employer more money
2. How you saved your employer money
3. How you increased customer satisfaction

Rather than saying, “I am a performance driven individual, who adheres to deadlines and excels under pressure”, write this: “Increased revenue by $255,000 within the first quarter; restructured the order submission process which saved the company 5,000 hours per year. Launched product x 30 days before due date…”

You get the hint. Be specific and use numbers to show the impact you had on the business, not just descriptive words that every resume uses.

6. Pay Attention To The Font & Readability

The font should also be easy to read. Simple fonts like Arial and Times New Roman work well. Avoid anything that is cartoonish or difficult to read. That also means you want size 14 with enough spacing or 12 if you have to, but not smaller. Otherwise, people simply will not read it.

For titles and headers, increase the size of the font or make it bold. For items such as dates, consider italics.

Color

Resumes should be clean, concise and easy to read. Some people opt to add color to the resume to stand out from the other applicants. If you do want to incorporate color, simply place your name at the top of the resume in a color such as navy blue but keep the remainder of the resume in black. If you apply for a position in a creative field, you can even take a step back and come up with a unique way to apply, that will certainly get you noticed more than a regular paper resume.

If you apply for a position in a creative field, you can even take a step back and come up with a unique way to apply, that will certainly get you noticed more than a regular paper resume.

7. Be Ready for the First Contact

If the employer is impressed with your resume and wants to learn more about you, they will generally contact you by phone to schedule an interview or tell you about the interview process.

Different jobs require different types of interviews. If you do receive a call from the employer, the goal is brevity and professionalism. Be kind, attentive and polite. If you happened to answer the phone in a noisy environment, excuse yourself from the situation or ask if you can call them right back. A recruiter will be happier to wait for you to call back over having to ignore background noise.

In some cases, this phone call is simply an introduction to say that your resume was received and they would like you to come into their office for an interview. In other situations, they might have some follow-up questions for you, or they might ask if you have time to do a phone interview to help them determine fit before they call you in for a formal interview.

If they are simply asking you to come in for an interview, thank them for the opportunity, ask them if there is anything specific you need to bring with you and confirm their address, the date and the time of the interview. Be sure to get the name of the person conducting the interview and ask them to spell it if you’re unsure.

If the recruiter called in hopes of obtaining some basic information or wishes to conduct a short pre-interview, accept the opportunity. There are two reasons that recruiters will do this:

1. If they truly don’t have specific information they need in order to determine whether you’re qualified for the position. This might mean confirming items listed on your resume or asking if you have a specific accreditation for the job.
2. They might be trying to catch you off guard. Most recruiters understand that when you show up for an interview at their office, you’ve had time to prepare and most likely planned some answers for their questions. If they are trying to catch you off guard, it’s not to trick you or make you look like a fool. It’s so they can see how to react under pressure and without having a chance to plan. If for whatever reason you really don’t have time for the interview that moment or secretly feel the need to plan, ask if you can schedule something with them later in the day or the following day.

The basics – except

8. The Job Interview

At this point, you’ve been asked to come in for an interview. Depending on the position you’ve applied for, the interview may be conducted by a single recruiter, a direct manager that would oversee you or possibly a team of people. It’s normal to feel nervous or intimidated. Just remember they called you in which means they already have an interest in you.

What to Bring To The Interview

If the recruiter specifically instructed you to bring documents, be sure you have two copies of each document. If they did not request anything, it’s wise to bring the following items with you, so you’ll appear prepared and interested.

1. Two Pens

Why two? In case one stops flowing or you accidentally lose it. Often interview sessions will require you to complete some paperwork or an examination. Be sure to bring two working pens with black ink. If specific writing instruments are required such as a pencil or a red ink pen, the recruiter will often have one on hand for you to use. We highly recommend bringing a fine writing instrument over a generic BIC or PaperMate pen.

2. Your ID

If the job is in a secure building, chances are you’ll be asked for ID when you arrive. The other reason to bring identification is if they offer you the job. They will need to be able to confirm your identity. Be sure to bring with the following:

• Driver’s License / ID card
• Social Security Number
• Work Visa or Immigration Documents
• Copies of Certifications or Accreditations Needed
• Multiple Copies of Your Resume

Other Items

• List of References with Contact Information
• Notebook

You don’t necessarily have to offer all these items, but if they mention that they’ll require them, it’s a great way to show them how organized and prepared you are.

Conclusion

Prepping an interview is anything but easy. It requires diligence, hard work and time on your part. But if you are willing to go the extra mile, it will pay off. If not at the first, second or third interview, don’t give up and try to understand what went wrong, so you won’t make the same mistakes again. If you follow all the tips in this guide, you are likely more qualified that most of the other applicants and that will elevate you from the test.

Next, stay tuned for our next guide, which is all about Interview Questions and How You Should Prepare them.

This guide was written by J.A. Shapira and Sven Raphael Schneider

Suits come in many different qualities and price ranges, yet many men believe a suit is a suit. That couldn’t be further from the truth, and it’s like saying a car is a car, no matter whether it is a Tata from India or a Bugatti.

Therefore, in today’s guide, we discuss the differences between a $100 suit and a $1000 suit and we share secrets, so you get the best suit for your money.

Watch the video to better understand the differences between suits qualities and don’t forget to give us a thumbs up if you like it.

Buying Suits On A Budget – I Have Been There

In my wardrobe, I have suits that cost over $5000 new and some that just cost $5. Over time, I’ve seen the entire broadband of suit manufacturing and so I want to share with you what goes into it and what you need to know.

When I became interested in suits, I didn’t have much money and a $100 was a lot and so I had to make things go far. The suit I’m wearing today cost me only $80 but in fact, it’s from A Caraceni in Milan, one of the most renowned tailors in Italy and the world. New, the suit cost over $5000 but I just got it for $80 and if in this guide I will provide tips so you can do the same.

A. Caraceni Milan

Key Differences Between a $100 Suit & a $1000 Suit

$100 Suit

• You can find it at Jos. A. Bank, H&M, Men’s Wearhouse, they’re all pretty similar. Basically, it is a completely machine-made suit that is sewn together in 2-3 hours max, and there is no handwork whatsoever. When it comes to suits, hand sewing is better because it is more flexible and it adapts to your body more easily and so especially for a jacket, you always want more handwork.
• Made of very cheap fabric and cheap lining. The fabric of a $100 suit is usually stretched with polyester, with nylon, or other artificial fibers. Also, the raw materials may be cotton or wool that go into that fabric are of the lowest quality possible. The $100 suit may not look that different when you see pictures online, but as soon as you touch it, you can immediately tell the difference between a $100 suit and a $1000 suit. It simply is stiffer, less comfortable, and you’re more prone to sweating in it.

• Glued interlining. So, what exactly is interlining and why do you use it? When you start out with fabric, you have a two-dimensional surface, in order to keep it in a three-dimensional shape, you need a second layer, and the layer needs to be attached in a certain shape, so it stays like this, think about this of your chest, and this being the fabric, and this the interlining, Once they’re detached, they stay in shape.

For the $100 suit, this interlining is of very low quality and is glued to the fabric, that works in the beginning, but it also acts as an insulator, so you’re much more likely to overheat and sweat. Over time and maybe if you walk through the rain, this interlining will come lose, and you will see bubbles forming on your lapels all over your jacket, that looks cheap and sloppy, and it’s the hallmark of a $100 suit.

Handwork and hand stitched lining on a quality suit

Cheap buttonhole on a lower end garment

• Lack of attention to details. For example, on a $100 suit the buttonholes are first sewn and then cut not the other way around that means you see some fraying. Also, the trimmings are usually low-quality, the buttons are plastic, the lining is polyester, and everything is made to remain low on the cost side, but it also means low on the quality. Usually, you also don’t see any refined cuts, you don’t see fine pick stitching by hand, it’s all either non-existent or machine-made.
• The cut of a $100 suit can, in theory, be as good as the on of a $1000 suit or a more expensive suit but in practice, that’s rarely the case. More often than not, $100 suits are either very fashion-forward, with very skinny lapels, and you can only wear them a year max, before they go out of fashion, or they’re simply old-fashioned and the cut is boxy and bulky and simply not favorable. In order to create a suit from a piece of fabric, you need a pattern. For a $100 suit, this pattern is the same for everyone without any custom element and so it will never fit you perfectly. That aside, the $100 suit patterns are often not very refined.

• Inferior Pattern. In order to tailor a suit, one needs a pattern. On a $100 suit, this pattern is the same for everyone, there’s no custom element, and so it will never fit you perfectly. That aside, the $100 suit patterns are often not very refined. Let’s say they go for a slim suit or a slim silhouette, they make everything slim, even your sleeves and then you can’t move when you want to do something, you can’t wave for a cab, simply because it wasn’t thought through and it’s too tight.
• Deep-cut armhole that restricts your movement. Most $100 suits have deep cut armholes that restrict your movement. In recent years, it has changed a little bit, sometimes they have adopted more modern cuts, and they try to go with details such as working buttonholes, but in reality, they still use cheap buttonholes, and it still looks cheap. So, at the end of the day, a $100 suit looks cheap, and it feels cheap when you wear it. If you think about it more, it makes perfect sense: the retailer has to make some money, the sewer has to make some money, and the factory owner who employs a sewer wants to make money. At the end of the day, there’s not much room left to add anything of quality.

Big armholes restrict movement

A $100 Suit Sucks

The consequence of a $100 suit is that the person who sews the garment earns very little and sometimes has to do it under dangerous conditions, so my verdict for a new $100 suit is, it’s never worth its money because it’s below average on day one and just goes downhill afterward.

Are You On A Budget? Go Vintage!

Now, if that’s the maximum budget that you have and I used to have that budget, what I suggest you do is you go vintage. Buy used suits simply because you can buy a much higher retail price suit for a lower price, so you get a better quality, and you can look great and feel great without breaking the bank.

You can find complete suits for 10 or 20 dollars that have hardly ever been worn or sometimes completely unworn but have a high-quality, and you can score a huge bargain there. However, not all suits at second-hand stores or vintage stores are of quality, you can also find cheap suits so how do you distinguish between a cheap used suit and a quality vintage suit?

If you want to learn more about that, please sign up to our email list here and you will learn more about this specific stuff over time. We also discuss how to build a wardrobe, how to determine quality from crap and everything you wanted to know about suits, garments, and wardrobes.

Quality Hallmarks of a $1000 Suit

No matter what suit you buy, you always need to understand the quality and the quality hallmarks. You need to be able to identify a $1000 suit in a thrift store.

• Quality can be hugely different for suits that cost $1,000. On the one hand, you can have an Armani fashion brand for a thousand dollars which has more machine workmanship and fashion-forward styling than a suit that is made by a custom tailor in HongKong. The time that goes into a thousand dollar suit can range from 8 hours to 30 hours so that’s obviously a huge difference and you will also be able to feel that.

• Generally, a $1,000 suit shows some amount of handwork. Sometimes, these suits have decorative elements like hand-sewn buttonholes that look nice, they use a silk thread that is shiny or a cotton thread, they may have machine-made buttonholes, but it looks nice. They may have an interlining that is sewn in hand or a collar which makes it softer and fit better and make you look better. Generally, big brands like Canali, or Armani, or Dolce & Gabanna, have less handwork but a refined style and pattern that you can use. On the other hands, suits from Asia may have more handwork because the labor is less expensive but the styling can sometimes be a little old-fashioned and not classic and boxy.
• Better Quality Fabric. At the $1,000 price level, you can get a decent quality cloth that lasts, is soft and comfortable on your skin and drapes well on your body. Compared to a $100 this is a huge improvement.
• The biggest advantage of a $1,000 suit: Interlining & Construction. Where the $100 suit has a glued interlining, the $1000 suit has a half canvas or full canvas interlining. So, what does that mean?

Machine sewn lapel interlinings done with a Strobel pick stitching machine

Half Canvas

A half canvas is sewn to the fabric, and it’s usually made of materials such as horsehair or cotton or wool and that way, it’s more breathable, so you don’t overheat. As a consequence, you’re less likely to sweat, and it moves with you on your body, so it’s more comfortable. To save on cost, this form of interlining is only used on the upper part of your body such as your chest and it’s glued at the bottom part of your jacket.

Handsewn canvas on a lapel

Full canvas

Full canvas means that the interlining is sewn throughout your jacket, and it’s the best version you can get. At a thousand dollar price point, usually, these canvases are made by machine and not by hand. Even though hand sewing will be better but it’s very time-intensive and for a thousand dollars, you have to make some trade-offs.

$1,000 Will Not Buy You The Best Of Everything

Overall, a $1,000  suit will not give you the best of everything, you either can get something with more handwork that is a little more comfortable and lasts longer or maybe something that is more machine made with a more refined cut but you have to compromise on the fabric.

How To Quickly Identify A Quality Suit? Check the Collar

No matter if you spend a hundred dollars or a thousand dollars, this little secret will help you save a lot of money and to get quality suits.

When I walk into a store and look at suits, the first thing I do is to unfold the collar and look at the stitching.

If it is machine-sewn with a zig-zag stitch, I move on especially at a vintage store. If it’s hand-sewn, I take the jacket off and take a closer look. I do this because a hand-sewn collar indicates a very high quality and if the collar is handsewn, it is very likely that you have a sewn full canvas interlining, and fine details.

How can you tell if the collar is machine sewn or not?

A machine sewn collar has very regular zig zag stitches or in general consistent stitching. On the other hand, a hand-sewn collar has irregular stitchting. Take a look at the picture below and you can see very fine stitching, but it doesn’t have to be that way. However you can always see slight irregularities. It will take a bit of time to practice. Ideally, you start looking at machine made jackets, then you know what they look like. And then you look at one that is hand-sewn. Eventually you will be able to tell which one is which with 100% accuracy.

Zig-Zag stitch of a machine sewn collar

If I go into a vintage store with 300 suits, there are probably only going to be 3-5 suits that are hand-sewn. Using this method, I can quickly go through the entire store and look at the ones in my size and determine if it’s worth staying there or not. If the collar is hand-sewn, chances are, it’s a high-quality garment, and it deserves a second look, and you can use the hallmarks I described in this guide to identify if you should buy it or not.

This little trick can save you a lot of time and $$$.

Finely hand-sewn collar, boutonniere loop & handmade buttonhole

Conclusion: Know What Makes A Quality Suit

High-quality suits are often just a little more expensive than well-known, used brands or even cheaper suits that are more modern simply because the price range is very limited in those stores. So even if you buy a new suit, you can utilize that same method to look at the existing quality when somebody wants to sell them something.

Now that you know the key differences between a $100 and a $1000 suit, stay tuned for a more detailed guide about $500 vs. $5000 suits.

One of the things that people get wrong all the time is the distinction and meaning of the terms Ready to Wear, Off the Rack, Made to Order, Made to Measure, and Bespoke. Therefore, I decided to create a guide that clearly explains what these terms mean, how they are (ab)used and what you need to know, so you don’t get fooled when you buy clothing.

The video has more pictures and explanations than the written guide, so make sure to watch it. If you like it, please give it a thumbs up!

Ready to Wear (RTW) = Off the Rack (OTR)

Ready to wear is a garment that you can buy in a shop, it just hangs there, and you could buy it as it is. It’s intended to be worn immediately and hence, also called off the rack or ready to wear.

PROs:

• What you see is what you get. It hangs there, you can touch it, you can feel it, you can see it, try it on, and you know exactly what you get.
• You also don’t have to wait. You just buy it, get home, wear it and enjoy it. It’s certainly the easiest way to shop.

Sometimes, ready to wear is abbreviated to RTW and off the rack to OTR, so keep that in mind. It’s all the same thing! When you’re at the store, you should always try it on directly to see if it needs minor alterations such as in the waist or if it has something that can be tough to alter such as shoulders that are too wide.

What you see is what you get – Ready To Wear – high end version with unfinished sleeves and pants, so you can get the fit right

CONs:

• It will never fit you perfectly even if it’s altered afterward. Most are designed as mass market garments. At least for clothes, you can make alterations. You buy a pair of shoes; you can’t.
• You usually don’t find unique fabrics such as Solaro, fresco, or Donegal tweed, etc.
• Since it is made from a standard pattern, it’s only good for people with a very symmetrical body. Bare in mind, no human being has a truly symmetrical body. Personally, my right shoulder is much lower than my left one, and so every ready-to-wear garment I have will have to be altered or just looks wrinkled in the back. Personally, I’ve never seen a ready to wear, off the rack garment that fit perfectly a 100% even after alterations. Some people think it does, but usually, what it means, they’re just not educated enough to see the flaws of the garment.

That being said, heavier, thicker fabrics such as tweed, drape much better for ready to wear than a thin fabric. Apart from tweed garments or thick fabrics, one garment that’s great to buy ready to wear is the vest and the waistcoat. It doesn’t have any sleeve length that needs to be altered, and you only need a chest measurement because the waist can also be adapted to your size.

Made To Order Boots in blue suede with brown leather soles and contrasting shoelaces

Made to Order (MTO)

Made to order is fundamentally a ready to wear garment that introduces customization options. It’s very popular for shoes, not so much for garments. What that means is that you pick a standard last, and you decide what leather you want, what colors, and what sole you want. For more high-end providers, they even offer you an option to adapt your last and customize the fit, but that’s the exception to the rule. The advantage is, you know exactly what you get in terms of fit and you get the exact color, shape and style you want.

PRO:

• What you see is what you get. Regarding fit, the exact color, shape and style you want.

CONs:

• You pay a higher price.
• You have to wait longer.  It has to be made for you, yet you don’t really get a better fit than an off the rack pair of shoes.

Made to Measure (MTM)

This term is now used for anything under the sun that includes some form of measurement. In its pure form, made to measure is a step up from ready to wear. Basically, you take a standard pattern, take the person’s measurements, and you adapt that pattern to those measurements. Many people confuse made to measure with bespoke but bespoke is more than made to measure and later, I’ll explain why.

Made to measure is very popular with garments, not shoes, and most of the time when someone tells you it’s a custom garment, it likely is made to measure. Works particularly well if your body is not very asymmetrical and you don’t have many major issues because it’s simply an adaptation of the standard pattern, so the fit will rarely be a 100% but you have all the customization options that you can possibly think of. The shape of your lapels, the fabric, the interlining, the buttons, everything you want to choose, you can.

Made To Measure Black Tie Ensemble

PROs:

• Less expensive than a bespoke garment.  It’s usually more expensive than off the rack because it includes customization
• An improved fit. You can choose and get something that you want with a much better fit.

CONs:

• Quality may Vary. The problem of made to measure is that there are so many different providers and may vary in quality. Sometimes you get a made to measure suit that looks great when you stand, but as soon as you move, you’re limited because it just isn’t a well-designed pattern. You can also spend anything from $300 – $3000 for made to measure and obviously, there is a difference in the amount of hand-sewing and the quality that goes into the garment, the fabrics, and the trimming. Whenever you see an online custom suit, it’s likely a made to measure suit. Results vary depending on the company, measurements that were taken and the pictures you can provide. So be cautious and don’t expect perfection.

Overall, made to measure is great for people who want to customize garments, the fabric of their choice, they’re easy to fit and don’t want to spend thousands of dollars on a garment.

Bespoke

The term bespoke is derived from the word “bespeak” which means, to speak for something. It’s a very British term and just describes a customized process where one individual can really decide exactly what they want. One garment, pair of shoes, or anything else related to clothing made exclusively for them.

The big difference to made to measure is that a pattern is created from scratch, usually involves more handwork and there are no options. You can basically choose any detail you want, any shape or form whereas, made to measure usually means you pick from a catalog.

Unfortunately, bespoke is not a protected term and people use it for all kinds of things. Sometimes, even for ready to wear, made to order and made to measure. On Savile Row, bespoke means that the suit was made on or around the row, a pattern was cut by an individual for an individual and at least 50 hours of handwork are required as well as fittings. But, that’s just limited to Savile Row.

Bespoke Coats in Interesting Fabrics

For shoes, it means that a last will be created for you, and it’s one of a kind because your feet are different, they’re never a 100% the same and you can choose the styling, the leather, and any detail you want. As you can see, wearing a bespoke garment requires knowledge on your behalf because a tailor can ask you “How would you like your shoulders?”, “How should it be done?”, And you can be easily overwhelmed once you don’t know what you want. Of course, a good tailor can also guide you but at the end of the day, you shouldn’t order a bespoke if you don’t have a basic understanding of what it is that you seek.

Bespoke Shoes in Exotic Styles & Materials

PROs:

• Superb fit. Now, in theory, bespoke garment should always fit perfectly. Unfortunately, in reality, that’s not always the case. When you start out, your first bespoke suit is probably never going to be the best when it comes to fit. However, subsequent ones should be, and the fit should improve with every suit. However, since it’s a hand-made garment, no suit will ever be exactly alike.  Larger houses like Brioni or Kiton often can reproduce garment in a better way because they have individual people just work on the pants, just on the jacket, just on the sleeve. An individual tailor will always have variation, and that’s just the beauty of a hand-made garment.
• Limitless options.

CONs:

• Price.  It is usually the most expensive.
• It takes more time. It takes the longest, and it has fittings, so it takes more time.

CONCLUSION

Now that you know the differences between ready to wear, off the rack, made to order, made to measure, and bespoke, stay tuned for another guide where I discuss the difference between the terms: custom made, hand made, and all the other confusing words that are out there. So what do you prefer? Let me know in the comments and make sure you like this video and sign up to our email newsletter,

So what do you prefer? Let me know in the comments and make sure you like this video and sign up to our email newsletter here to never miss out on content of this kind.

The other week, I discussed the differences between Bespoke, MTM, and RTW but on top of that, you often read description such as Custom Made, Handmade, or Bench Made but rarely ever machine made. In this guide, I discuss the differences between these terms so you can spot false advertisements more easily, and get a better value for your money.

I highly recommend watching the video for an illustrated definition of these terms. Please share it, like it and comment on youtube if you think it’s helpful.

CUSTOM / CUSTOM-MADE

The term custom implies that something is customized to your taste. Unfortunately, it’s not a protected term so that can mean anything from choosing the length of your shirt to defining anything you want in your garment. It does not tell you whether something is machine-made or hand-made, or to what degree it is hand-made, or how many hours went into it. It simply implies there’s some degree of customization. As such, it’s an umbrella term that is used by all kinds of businesses and usually, the goal is to make you spend more money. So keep that in mind when somebody advertises it as custom.

Whenever you meet a custom shirt maker, custom tailor, or custom shoemaker, you should always ask exactly what it is that they do. It’s important because the term won’t tell you and it could be anything from made to order, made to measure, or true bespoke. If you don’t know what these terms mean, please check out our other video where I discuss the difference between those terms and explain exactly what they are and what they aren’t.

Handmade pattern for a bespoke suit

Ask Questions!

It’s important to ask questions, so you don’t overpay for something that is sold as one thing but is actually another. You have to be particularly careful and cautious when somebody calls themselves a custom clothier because that can be anybody who just did a one week or three-day training on how to measure somebody to sell shirts or it could be a twenty-five-year experience haberdasher who truly cares about what you do. Again, it’s crucial to ask exactly why they call themselves that and what the process is the garment has to undergo.

When somebody tells you, they’re a custom shirtmaker, but all they do is measure you and then send those measurements to a factory that makes that shirt, they are just a salesperson who can use a measuring tape. Also, if someone is a custom tailor, they will not call themselves a custom clothier because a tailor is more than a clothier and they want to let you know that’s what they are and that they have the training. So try to figure out where they learned the craft.

A true custom tailor has learned his craft for years, he can make a pattern, he can even create a suit from scratch without a machine altogether. Now, your alterations tailor may also call themselves a “custom tailor” because they can sew a dress but at the end of the day, without the training and the skill, you’re not a true custom tailor. Again, this term is not protected, and people will always use them to their advantage. Look beyond the words and try to understand what the process is they apply so you can reach your own conclusion.

Handmade by hand

HANDMADE

The ter handmade implies that hand labor is involved somewhere along the way. Doing something by hand usually takes longer than doing it by machine and therefore, it costs more. Overall, handmade does not per se mean better because you could have bad handwork and good machine work.  however, when it comes to clothing, handmade usually means hand-stitched and that is a more flexible stitch than a machine stitch, and it looks prettier and is, therefore, more expensive and more desirable. Also, think about a shirt collar, if it is sewn by hand, you can sew it on around which is the shape you’ll actually have. If you sew it on by machine, it is sewn flat, and that’s not a shape that your neck actually has. So, a handsewn shirt collar is clearly superior to the machine sewn one.

However, when it comes to classic men’sclothing, handmade usually means hand-stitched and that is a more flexible stitch than a machine stitch. Not only does it look prettier but the flexibility makes you more comfortable, and hence more desirable. At the same time, it is also more expensive.

Now, think about a shirt collar for a moment, if it is sewn by hand, you can sew it on in a round which is the shape the collar will have when it’s worn on your neck: round. If you sew the collar on by machine, it is sewn flat, and that’s not a shape that your neck actually has. So, a handsewn shirt collar is clearly superior to the machine sewn one because it suits your body better.

Handmade product using a sewing machine

The same is true for a jacket collar; a hand sewn collar is always superior.

However, handmade is one of the most misleading terms because people don’t really define what it is. Sometimes, it’s used to describe a person who sews something with a sewing machine. Other people only use it to describe sewing stitch per stitch by hand. Again, you have to ask what exactly handmade means to understand what you get for your money.

For example, for a tie. Sometimes, people call it handmade because somebody takes the tie, puts it into a machine that then sews it together. Other people only consider ties handmade if it is hand cut and hand sewn. So, just because you buy a handmade tie doesn’t mean that one handmade tie is the same as another hand made tie.

Hand sewing, all by hand

An honest business will always tell you what exactly went into the process when you ask. When people tell you, it’s handmade, but they don’t know what went into it, stay clear of them. Whenever you say the term handmade, bear in mind, it’s a favorite of marketing teams, and it’s simply used to get more money from you.

Therefore, it’s really important to understand what it is and what it’s not.

Liba Machine For Ties

MACHINE MADE

Whenever you buy clothing, people never  advertise their clothing as machine made simply because most people don’t associate higher quality with it. That being said, you can create high-quality garments with a certain amount of machine work. It’s used in garments because it’s less expensive, it’s faster, and stitches are more consistent. So if you know something is machine made, you know you should pay less for it than if it is all handmade.

Tools of a shoemaker

BENCH GRADE/BENCH MADE/HAND GRADE

Basically, it is something that is between machine made and handmade, but the borders are not really defined. More often than not, it is a marketing term used to sell you a machine made product for a higher price. Therefore, it’s important to ask the salesperson what exactly that means. By definition, bench implies that one person sat there and used some tools and machines to create the shoe or the garment. Back in the day, it may be truly meant that somebody on a bench worked on this one product, and it wasn’t an assembly line production but today, you simply don’t know what is actually the case. Ask about it, ask for pictures of the production and if people really, truly mean that something is bench made, there should be one person working on it at the time.

Bench Made – means made at a work bench

CONCLUSION

At the end of the day, with all of those terms, what it means for you is, buyer beware! Understand what you want, what you can afford, and what is sold to you. Follow those steps and you’ll get a much better value for your clothing, and you also have a better appreciation of what went into the garment and makes you proud when you wear it, and it shows!

Recently, we showed you the difference between a $100 vs. $1,000 suit. Today’s post continues in that fashion and highlights the main differences between a $500 custom suit and a $5000 bespoke suit. We share secrets and quality hallmarks so you will get the best value for your money, no matter how much you spend.

Video

For this guide, it is essential to watch the videos, because I show fit issues that cannot be shown in pictures alone.

Most men assume custom is custom and that a $500 online custom suit can fit just as well as a $5,000 suit — or that’s the theory at least.

In my experience even an inexpensive custom suit can look great when you stand still but it often looks terrible and feels uncomfortable once you try to walk, sit, or move like a regular person.

For example, I had a bad suit and when I just wanted to eat with my right hand, it pulled back  on my left shoulder, the collar gapped and my right arm was restricted because the sleeves were too tight. Everything was uncomfortable but it was a custom suit that used my measurements.

$500 custom suits have become very popular in the last few years because of online supply chain management. It’s very easy to order something online with just your measurements and receive something in the mail four weeks after. On the other hand, a traditional bespoke suit costs a lot more and takes longer to produce. So what’s the difference?

Handmade, neat buttonholes are obligatory on a $5000 bespoke suit

Order Process

$5000 Bespoke Suit

If you commission something at a custom or bespoke tailor, that means it’s an in-person relationship — you go there, they measure you, they look at how you move. They have a very educated eye, they can see right away that you have a sloping shoulder, a bigger thigh, and they confirm their assumptions, what they see, they take with their measurements

Once you’ve picked out all the fabric, the trimmings, and the lining, the tailor can start to work on your suit. But he doesn’t just create it, he has a loosely fitting garment for a first fitting, a second fitting, and a third fitting. These fittings ensure that you get a great fit and that you don’t have bad surprises once you put on the garment and you can’t make changes anymore. Depending on the tailor you choose, it can take anywhere from one month to one year to get your suit, as it also depends on how many tailors they have on, and how much time they have, and how many orders they have to process.

Handsewn details on a $5000 bespoke suit

You can get bespoke suits for as little as $1500 to $2000, and it’s the same process as it is for $5000 suits. The difference is with the $5000 suit you also get expert style advice. Usually these high-end bespoke tailors are well-known and revered for their taste and style, and that’s part of what you buy. Because you’re the customer, you don’t have to do anything.

The True Cost Of Bespoke = Time + Travel + Suit Cost

Unless you’re 100% happy with the suit, you don’t have to accept it. Bespoke suits are very popular; they come from Savile Row or from Naples, and so a lot of men travel to those destinations to have a suit made for them. The problem is that that’s an additional cost, and it can cause a lot of pain in the process to get it right, especially if more fittings are needed.

So keep that into consideration when you decide to work with a tailor who is not in your city.

Collar is machine stitched on a $500 custom suit

$500 Custom Suit

With a $500 custom suite, you usually have to measure yourself — especially if you do it online — and there’s no personal relationship. Sure, you may be able to ask questions or send an email, but at the end of the day, you have to find an untrained friend or acquaintance that can measure you and you have to rely on their videos to work.

They will sometimes also promise that if you just send in a picture with a credit card that you hold up their algorithm will determine the size. However, in my experience, it never works, simply because it’s too far off.

Big department stores sometimes offer a 3D measurement technique, and while that sounds good in theory, it never really works in practice because the results are not 100% accurate. A human eye and an understanding of what a person needs is just not something that you can translate into a machine measurement. The turnaround time for these suits is usually 4-8 weeks because they’re factory made. Usually, they’re sewn together in Asia because it’s less expensive.

The decorative stitching is machine-made even though it is made to look like handwork – typical of a $500 suit

All you do is take your measurements, put them on their system, choose the fabric, and you get a suit back. No fittings involved and no real trained tailor with an experienced eye that can guide you and help you — and that’s why you pay a lower price. If you have an unusual body shape or strong, sloping shoulders that are different from one side to the other, the $500 custom suit can be very difficult to accommodate whereas a $5000 bespoke suit easily can do that because the tailor can look at you, and with the fittings, adjust so it looks perfect on you.

Handmade pattern for a bespoke suit

Fit & Pattern

$5000 Bespoke Suit

A $5000 is based on a paper pattern that is unique to you, that is made from scratch just for you, and it will really show in the final end result and fit. Not only will it look great, but you will also be comfortable, you can move around, you can eat, you can ask for a cab, and everything stays in place and looks good.

Lining is machine stitched on a $500 custom suit

$500 Custom Suit

A $500 custom suit has a made to measure pattern. If you want to learn more about the term, watch the video here. What happens is that a standard pattern is used and then modified with your measurements, so it supposedly fits you better. The entire process of the pattern making is computer processed, and it’s based on just the measurements — so if the measurements are off, the entire thing will be off. Oftentimes, these suits are very slim and they look great when you stand, but as we saw before, andas you can see here, it’s really terrible when it’s too tight and you can’t move in your suit because it’s so uncomfortable.

Sleeve should be handsewn on a bespoke suit

Construction

Basically, you can have a suit with a glued interlining, a sewn interlining, and something that is a mix between the two. To learn more about the differences, please check out our video between a $1000 and a $100 suit.

$5000 Bespoke Suit

Usually fully canvassed and you can even decide if you want a stiffer canvas or a soft one.

$500 Custom Suit

Usually either have a glued interlining or a partially sewn interlining but usually never have fully sewn interlining.

Details

$5000 Bespoke Suit

Now, when it comes to details, a $5000 suit has more handwork. You can see that on the buttonhole, it’s handmade, looks very nice, the edges are nicely rounded even on the sleeves and the linings, and the little details on the inside really show you that it’s a quality garment. Moreover, a $5000 suit is usually padded by hand and when you flip open your lapel, you can see irregular stitches made by hand. In this case, it shows that there is soft interlining so it’s very comfortable and feels more like a sweater.

$500 Custom Suit

On the other hand, a $500 suit will not have those hallmarks. Even if it’s a full or half canvas construction, it’s machine made and it lacks the sophistication. The same is true for things like the pick stitching, which is done by hand, they’re very subtle on a bespoke garment, you can see it along the edges and for a $500 custom suit, it’s usually a machine made stitch, that is made to look like a hand stitch but isn’t.

Years ago, only bespoke garments had surgeon cuffs, which means that you could open the buttonholes on your jacket. Today, online custom makers have copied that feature, and so it’s no longer a way to determine whether you have a quality garment or an inexpensive, factory-made garment from China.

Bespoke Coats in Interesting Fabrics

Choice of Fabric

An inexpensive or cheap suit will only have a very limited bandwidth. Usually, they’re made in Asia, even if they have big names on that or India. They’re usually thin, flimsy, and just the usual business colors — gray, navy, with some patterns. On the other hand, a bespoke tailor will usually be able to offer any fabric that you could want; they may even have vintage fabrics, a Solaro, a Fresco, really unusual things that make your suits special and ideally suited to the environment you’ll be in.

CONCLUSION

So at the end of the day, you really get what you pay for. A $5000 bespoke suit gives you a great fabric choice, a superior fit, a personal experience on a trained tailor’s eye, on the other hand, $500 custom suit is much cheaper, costs a fraction of the price but you’ll usually have to compromise on fit. It’s often not as comfortable, the fabric choice is limited, and the details are limited as well. So you simply have to decide what works best for you. That being said, I have a mix of everything in my closet, I have some ready to wear items, I’ve some made to measure items and some bespoke items. It’s just important to be aware that a $500 custom suit is not the same as a $5000 bespoke suit.

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In the US, one of the most characteristic summer fabrics is Seersucker.  Used for slacks, jackets, shorts and suits, it not only comes in the original color of blue and white but also in a range of other colors. This guide is all about seersucker so you will know exactly what to look for the next time you are in the market for a summer suit.

For the most comprehensive seersucker experience, please watch the video below and read the guide.

What Exactly Is Seersucker?

Today, seersucker is considered to be a puckered, striped, lightweight cotton fabric. The most widespread version is striped in blue and white, although there are many other color combinations.

One stripe is always white while the partner stripe can be bright yellow, Granny Smith green, pink, etc. What makes seersucker special is its puckered texture. This look is achieved by pulling individual warp yarns tighter than others. This process is also known as a slack-tension weave.  As a consequence, the crinkling is permanent, and other wrinkles are less visible. Also, it does not require any ironing even though the yarn was not treated to that end. Many claim that the crinkling supposedly facilitates air circulation, although I have never found anyone who could explain this theory to me in a convincing manner. If you have better sources, please leave a comment below.

While cotton is the number one material used in seersucker production, it remains unclear what materials were originally used. It seems as though linen and blends of linen and cotton were also used for production. Personally, I think such a blend could make this fabric even more interesting due to the blending of the textures.

Traditionally, the stripes are rather slim, measuring approximately 2 -3mm ( 1/10″) wide — there were also wider versions with stripes up to 5 mm (1/5″) thickness. Both are fine, although the latter one will look bolder while the thinner stripe resembles the look of a solid color from a distance.

Seersucker Thursday at the US Senate

Seersucker Origins

As with so many other garments or specific clothing items, it ‘s hard to pinpoint the birth of the seersucker fabric to a certain date.

Originally, seersucker fabric was rooted in India. At the time the country was ruled by the Mughal, Persian was the official language at court. Consequently, Persian was integrated into the local languages and shaped both the Urdu and Hindi languages. The term seersucker derives from these languages, referring to the dual tonality of the colors. In fact, “sheer”  means “milk” and “shukkar” means “lesser refined brown cane sugar.” Over time, the word evolved into “seersucker,” and it was first imported to Europe in the 18th century.

In the USA, the fabric started to become popular at the turn of the century. For example, politician John Garner of Texas supposedly wore seersucker suits at that time.  Joseph Guerney Cannon broke with protocol when he appeared in front of President Roosevelt in 1903 in a seersucker suit. In the late 19^th century, it was common for visitors to address the President of the United States in a black frock coat. However, one hot summer day, Cannon decided to wear a seersucker suit. When asked what caused him to break the rules of dress code, he supposedly exclaimed, “the weather was damn hot!”

Haspel & Seersucker

In the states, seersucker was first mass-produced in New Orleans by Joseph Haspel and his brother. The Haspel company is still one of the leading producers of seersucker garments today. Although the Haspel Brothers started their business in 1909 with work wear, they quickly adopted the production of seersucker in the US when they decided to offer a suit specifically designed for the blazing summer heat they were accustomed to living in.

Poor Man’s Suit & A Badge of Affluence

Despite such prominent proponents such as Cannon, the seersucker suit was long considered to be a poor man’s suit. Starting in the late 1930’s, smart Princeton students and Hollywood actors were spotted in seersucker suits, and LIFE magazine deemed it acceptable to wear seersucker in the northern part of the US. Subsequently, it was sometimes seen in posh resorts in California and the Bahamas, which certainly helped to promote its now debonair pedigree.

During WWII, the Duke of Windsor was ordered to the Bahamas, where he would not be the target of kidnapping amidst the conflict, and the famous clotheshorse learned to appreciate the seersucker suit. Subsequently, it did not take long before the association of seersucker with poverty was transformed into panache and elegance. Writers would proudly wear it in beach settings, and dapper men had discovered their new go-to summer suit. The columnist Damon Runyon even attested that wearing seersucker was “a badge of affluence.”

In the 1950’s and 1960’s, seersucker was probably at the height of its popularity in the Southern US, although it had not caught on as quickly in the northern parts of the country.

A number of famous people helped to retain the seersucker suit’s position in the attention of the public. For example, in the mid-1950’s, Miles Davis released his first 12″ LP and on the cover, he posed in a seersucker jacket with a cap. In 1962, Gregory Peck wore a seersucker suit in the famous movie To Kill a Mockingbird.

However, with the introduction of air conditioning to office buildings and homes, the seersucker suit lost its appeal even in the Southern parts of the US. Even the introduction of lighter synthetic fibers could not staunch the decline.

Seersucker Today

Outside the US, the seersucker suit is often considered to be quintessentially American. Ironically, it is not seen on the streets very often anymore and if so, one easily becomes the center of attention. Today, there are only a few events left that promote the seersucker tradition. The St. Jude Classic golf tournament has a Seersucker Sunday (where Brooks Brothers provides the winner of the tournament with a seersucker jacket) and there is a small group from the US Congress which celebrates an annual Seersucker Thursday. In the late 1996, Senator Trent Lott from Mississippi picked a hot day in June and encouraged his peers to wear seersucker to bring some Southern flair to Congress. Ever since, a number of senators – male and female – participated in this young tradition until June 20, 2012. One day before the Seersucker Thursday 2012, the Senate cloakroom’s staff notified members that the custom was being discontinued because Lott’s former colleagues were convinced it would be politically unwise to be seen “doing something frivolous” while there were so many conflicts over major issues. Outside of such events, you will hardly ever see a politician in the US wearing a seersucker suit.

Apart from that, seersucker suits are sometimes seen at garden parties and weddings in the summer, especially in the south, but it would be wrong to claim that many Americans wear seersucker suits anymore.

How to Buy Seersucker

First of all, you should make sure that you acquire a real seersucker fabric with an irregular warp. You can usually distinguish the real deal from the chemical fake by the degree and characteristic of the puckering in the fabric.

You can still buy seersucker off the rack from a few companies, including the American seersucker pioneer Haspel as well as Brooks Brothers.

Go With Single Breasted

Most seersucker suits today are single breasted with either two or three buttons; they usually come without a vest. This makes perfect sense because you want to wear as little fabric as possible during summer.

However, some men want to stand out from the crowd and opt for either  a three-piece single breasted seersucker suit or a double breasted coat. If you easily overheat, you should definitely stick with the single breasted seersucker jacket without a vest.

Seersucker Details

Most seersucker suits come with a center vent, notched lapels and flap pockets. Considering that the origin of the center jacket vent comes from horseback riding, it makes more sense to get side vents because they are more flattering to the wearer, especially when sitting or reaching into a pocket.

While flap pockets are fine for office suits, patch pockets are preferable if you want to wear the jacket or suit in casual situations because it suits the character of the fabric very well.

For the same reason, notched lapels are much better than peaked lapels because the latter are too formal for such a fabric.

Seersucker Colors

While blue and white are certainly the most classic colors (they probably represent 90% of the market share), there are various other colors including pink, lime green, yellow or beige that make for attractive alternatives. Of course, you will draw even more attention if you go with bright colors; some eccentrics will even go so far as to wear a double breasted seersucker suit with a matching seersucker vest.

In recent years, solid seersucker fabrics in navy as well as checks and plaids have found their way into men’s garments. If you already have the basic blue and white or beige and white covered, and you live in a hot climate it’s certainly worth considering. Otherwise, starting with the classics is probably best because you will be able to combine them with with your white shirts and summer accessories.

Seersucker Combinations

Personally, I wear seersucker suits but more often I wear my seersucker pants with a summer sport coat or blazer because these ensembles are less flashy but nevertheless distinctly summery and unique.

Also, when I am traveling the lightweight seersucker suit in combination with a sport coat allows for various combinations with minimal weight.

Seersucker Accessories

Seersucker goes particularly well with summer accessories due to its warm weather heritage.

Shirts

For shirts, an open weave summer fabric is best and white is the classic standard that I wear most of the time. If you prefer, light blue, pink, or other pastel tones may work as well, although white looks crisp and reflects the sunlight.

Instead of cotton you can also go with linen or linen blends, just make sure not to use too many accents because a seersucker is already bolder than other fabrics.

Summery Bow Ties for seersucker in Linen, Madras and Silk by Fort Belvedere

Neckwear – Bow Ties Or Knit Ties

Bow ties are probably the most popular neckwear choice, especially for the Kentucky Derby. Rather than a plain silk bow ties, blends in linen, cotton and silk look much better with seersucker.

If you prefer to wear a necktie with your seersucker outfit, go for something summery and a bit more unusual, such as a linen tie or a knit tie. Madras is a wonderful pattern and if you want to go with stripes, makes sure they are wide in order to create a contrast to the fine stripe of the fabric. Solid pink, red or navy ties may also look good, as dopolka dots or even club ties. Just make sure not to overdo it!

Personally, I almost always wear either linen ties or knit ties, because they look classic yet unique and very dapper.

White Bucks with Seersucker and green Fort Belvedere shoelaces

Shoes – White Bucks, Brown or Spectators

With regards to shoes, the classic white buckskin Oxford is the most traditional choice. While  it looks dapper, you will definitely stand out with them. Personally, I always mix up the shoelace colors of my white bucks so the ensemble looks different every time without being flashy.

However, brown or tan shoes are also an excellent option, especially suede shoes. Oxfords, derbies or loafers are all equally as well suited.

Alternatively, spectators can work well, although those are even bolder than white bucks. A Beige seersucker looks great with tan brown spectators, whereas a blue and white seersucker looks terrible with a black and white spectator because black is too harsh and not casual enough for seersucker.

For the same reason, plain black shoes should be avoided as well.

If you want to go really casual with your seersucker pants or shorts, boat shoes are a good companion. In that case, a madras belt is something to consider as well.

Madras Belt – ideal for a seersucker outfit

White Shirt with patch pocket seersucker suit, and orange and blue pocket square, bow tie and boutonniere by Fort Belvedere

Pocket Squares

For pocket squares, the same rules apply as for neckwear – go with colors, textures and patterns and fold them the way you like.

Boutonnieres

Of course, boutonnieres are a fantastic way to add that special touch to your seersucker suit. It’s summer, so go out and pick a fresh one — but make sure that it doesn’t lose pollen and stain your lapel and that it doesn’t wilt after five minutes.

For a natural looks without the risk of stains, take a look at our selection of boutonnieres here.

Panama Hat with orange linen bow tie, cornflower boutonniere lapel pin and pocket square by Fort Belvedere

Miscellaneous

Panama hats make for a stylish companion, but classic sunglasses with brown frames will do fine as well. On the other hand, mirrored Oakley sunglasses will ruin your seersucker look.

Now, good luck finding your personal seersucker suit and let us know what you get in the comments or, better yet,  send us a picture!

During the warmer months of the year, many readers and viewers ask us for advice about summer suits and outfits. Interestingly, most men think about cotton or linen fabrics first.Also, the lightness of the fabrics seems to be the number one criterium, but these are only two aspects of warm weather menswear. Therefore we created this guide where we explain what to look for in hot weather clothing.

Also make sure to read and watch our guides on summer sport coats and men’s summer shoes, because they are all connected.

Characteristics of a Summer Suit

Although a summer suit needs more than just one characteristic in order to be  worn comfortably, the most important aspect is neither weight nor the choice of material – it is breathability.

High Breathability Due to Loose Weave & Lack of Lining

When it is hot, you definitely want to feel every breeze coming your way, and the best way to do so is with an open-weave fabric. Loosely woven Panama, a basketweave fabric, is usually popular in summer and achieves the desired cooling effect.

When you hold a piece of this fabric against the light, you can see through the weave of the cloth, even it if is dark navy. If the fabric is a heavier weight, it will also keep you cooler than a featherweight cotton fabric that is tightly woven.

Use A Fan To Determine Your Suits’ Breathability

To test how breathable your suit is, stand about 3-4 yards / meters away from a fan. If you can feel the air, it’s breathable, if you can’t feel it, there is a better fabric to be found. Once you have worn a breathable garment in the wind, you know that it feels chilly in fall or early spring, but during the summer you want to feel the maximum breeze.

Patterns Help

The more open the weave, the more patterned your fabric should be to keep it from becoming see-through. However, bear in mind that lighter colors are better than darker ones since light-colored cloth reflects the sunlight whereas dark cloth absorbs it, making you feel warmer.

Even if you go for solids, a mottled color as you may know it from Flannel or Fresco is better than a plain color.

Also, you want to make sure that you get at least a half-lined jacket because, again, the finer weave of the lining will decrease your garment’s ability to breathe.

Half-lined denotes that the back does not have any lining except for the top, and fully unlined usually means that there is no lining except in the sleeves.

In southern Italy, you can find suits without sleeve lining for maximum coolness. However, your sleeve may not always look as nice because your shirt sleeve sticks to the suit sleeve and can restrict movement. Hence, a sleeve lining is a good idea unless you live in tropical climates.

Light Weight Fabric

Once you have settled on an open-weave, you can turn to choosing the weight of your suiting fabric. Fortunately, modern high-quality fabrics have a beautiful finish, and although the drape is not perfect, they are still the way to go.  7 ounces (210 grams) summer fabrics usually have very open weaves and you should seek out specific summer fabrics for summer suits, because even though some fabrics may be lightweight, the weave may be too dense for summer.

Tropical Worsted Wool – The Summer Standard

A popular summer fabric choice is Tropical. Basically all big mills offer their take on it, and it is simply an open weave worsted wool fabric. It’s generally softer than fresco but also not as breathable. Overall, it is a good choice, but if you want increased air flow you have to go with something else.

Fresco – The Hot Weather Wool

Another great summer suiting fabric is the Fresco fabric, which I already described in more detail in our Fresco article.

Fresco, Fort Belvedere Cornflower Boutonniere & Knit Tie

Linen for Summer?

Linen is a classic summer fabric because of its light weight, open weave and casual fabric structure. It is usually a little coarser than fine merino wool or cotton fibers., and it wrinkles graciously. After a day wearing a linen suit, you will appear anything but dapper, although some people like this nonchalant look during the summer. In my opinion, a linen suit is ideally suited for a vacation on Capri or casual events, but it is not a good choice for office wear. If you nevertheless want to wear linen at the office, try to find some blends with cotton or even silk. They will still have a beautiful casual look and feel without the wrinkles.

After a day wearing a linen suit, you will look a bit wrinkled but in a sophisticated way. For the office, you need to be able to pull it off because many people will just think it is a wrinkled suit.

Unusual seersucker with green hat by Gui Bo with purple mottled suit, tobacco linen and light grey summer sport coat

Classic linen summer suit colors include tobacco brown, beige or khaki tones, but you can also go with blue. If you go with the latter, be sure to get a lighter shade of blue than you would for a wool business suit because it underlines the summer character. If you want to do something special, you can also opt for unusual colors such as this inspired sky blue linen suit.

Summer Cotton

For most men, cotton seems to be a default choice during the summer. Now, there is a lot of cotton on the world market, but there are huge differences in terms of fiber length and thickness. In regard to summer clothing, the weave is more important. For example, khaki colored twill trousers or fine “summer” corduroy are not desirable since they impede air circulation. Instead, try to look for open weave poplin fabric.

If you cannot see through the fabric when holding it against the light, it is not well suited for warm summer weather.

Seersucker

Seersucker is a summer staple that seems to be particularly popular in the US, and you can learn all about it in our designated seersucker guide here.

However, the fabric has its roots in India. At the time the country was ruled by the Mughal, Persian was the official language at court. Consequently, a lot of Persian was integrated into the local languages and then shaped both the Urdu and Hindi languages. As such the term seersucker derives from these languages referring to the dual tonality of the colors. In fact, “sheer”  means “milk” and “shukkar” means “lesser refined brown cane sugar.” Over time, the word evolved into “seersucker,” and it was first imported to Europe in the 18th century. It is not clear what material it was originally made of; some say linen, while others claim it was a blend of cotton and linen. In any case, it is a puckered fabric and its special texture is achieved by pulling certain warp yarns tightly, while others are left looser. As such, the crinkling effect is permanent and as a result, no ironing is required. Supposedly, the crinkling is supposed to help air circulation, although I doubt that.

In the US, it was first popularized in the South, and originally it was considered to be the poor man’s linen suit. However, after WWII it became socially accepted as a proper summer suit. Although the seersucker suit consisted originally of pants, a vest, and a coat, it is now generally worn without the vest. In hot climates, the extra layer of cloth is really not necessary, although it looks better.

Silk & Cashmere

Sometimes you will see blends of cashmere and silk advertised for summer clothing. Personally, I think these two fibers are better suited for cooler climates. Silk is mostly woven very tightly and has excellent insulating properties, which rules it out as a summer contender. Cashmere is also very soft but simply too warm for hot summers.

Cut of a Summer Suit

If your number one objective is to stay cool, wear single breasted coats only without a vest. If you want to be more unique, you can go for a double-breasted seersucker in pink, and if you want to be avant-garde, get a vest to go with it, and you will most likely never see anyone else wearing such an ensemble!

DB navy blazer with red tie, grey flannel trousers and Panama Hat & SB blazer with madras tie, chinos & Panama hat

Summer Suit Accessories

To protect yourself from the sun and look put together despite the soaring temps, you should make sure to wear the right summer accessories with your suit. For shirts, I suggest cotton with an open weave, and while short socks may be cooler, a gentleman wears over-the-calf socks, because it is thoroughly inelegant to reveal one’s hairy calf when wearing a suit.

A Panama hat or any other straw hat such as a boater will keep your face in the shade. Sunglasses protect your eyes from UV rays, and if you chose polarized aviators, things around you look even prettier.

Pink Two Tone Knit Tie Fort Belvedere

In regards to neckwear, knit ties are great because they underline the casual character of the rest of your outfit and they are more breathable than regular ties. Linen ties are an alternative but just like the suit, they will wrinkle (ironing ties is never a good idea unless you rip it apart, iron it and sew it back together).

Also, bow ties are great because they do not cover your chest. For a selection of summer ties and bow ties take a look here.

Shoes should be in lighter colors. Suede, Saddle shoes and two-tone shoes such as spectators are equally as good as loafers or canvas shoes; it all depends on the degree of elegance you are going for. Check out our summer shoes guide for more details.

What do your summer outfits look like? What is your favorite summer wardrobe staple? Let us know in the comments!